If you’ve taken the next step in serious fish keeping, then you’ve likely stepped into the world of fish diet. If you’ve opened up the freezer at your local fish store, I’m sure you’ve already come to realize that there are tons of options to choose from. So where do you start? What would be best for your fish? In part 1. of this series, I will be discussing some of the single ingredient options that you may encounter. The best choice is not going to be a single choice. It will be full of variety to keep your fish healthy, happy, and balanced.
Here is a list of some of the single ingredient options you may encounter:
often confused with tubifex worms, the california black worm holds more nutritional value and is typically cultivated in a cleaner and safer method. While tubifex worms have been slammed for transmitting parasite and disease, the blackworms are typically a safer alternative. Blackworms are an excellent source of protein, aid in growth, and are highly palatable, making them a good choice for picky fish. Due to their richness, live blackworms should only be fed as a treat for most fish.
Whether a fish is new, sick, or having a hard time eating; I will use live blackworms as a tool to boost a fish’s moral and immune system to allow them to become stronger. For example; new clown loach are prone to ich when first being introduced to a tank. These clown loach are quite sensitive to many many medications, particularly those specifically for ich since they contain copper. Instead of jumping straight to the medications, I will feed clown loach live black worms until their little bellies get fat for at least 3 days. For the most part, the clown loach will become strong enough to combate the parasite on their own.
The bloodworm is the larval stage of the midge fly and gets its name by its red color. Intended for more carnivore based diets, it is high in protein and minerals and can aid in color enhancing. Due to this high protein content, it should be fed sparingly as a treat and most fish should be limited to feeding it once or twice a week. Back to the top
Brine-Growth
A favorite for many fish, it is great for conditioning fish for breeding and as a treat. High in amino acids, it holds most of its nutritional value when first hatched. It holds very little nutrition in its adult state and vitamins should be added either by the manufacturer or at home with products such as Selcon. Baby brine is a great option for fry as it’s very small and aids in fast growth.
When first hatched, baby brine is has high fatty acid levels; but this quickly diminishes as the egg sack disappears. While it is thought that adult brine holds no nutritional value much like a rice cake, many manufacturers will enrich it with vitamins and minerals. Live brine can also be “gut loaded” at home with products such as Selcon, making an excellent choice to include in your fish’s diet. Back to the top
Crickets can be given as a treat for freshwater fish, particularly those whose diet naturally consists of insects. Crickets are an excellent choice for baby arowana and many cichlid. While it crickets may contain protein, it is still recommended to “gut load” the crickets prior by feeding them beneficial to the fish such as a high quality fish food. Make sure to get your crickets from a reputable source and that is pesticide free. Back to the top
Daphnia-Fry/Health
Also called the water flea, daphnia is a small crustacean that is great for small or baby fish, though many fish find their taste irresistible. Its low in fat and aids in digestion. Daphnia contains most Vitamin A and Vitamin D, and smaller amounts of Vitamin C and Vitamin B; making this little crustacean a healthy option to include in your fish’s diet. You can find daphnia is frozen form and although it’s not as readily available in stores live, they can easily be cultivated at home. Back to the top
Earthworms-Treat
Another live food option that is an excellent source of protein. They are suitable for larger carnivorous fish or they can be chopped up for smaller fish. Make sure that you get your earthworms from a reputable source to reduce the risk of disease/bacteria. They can be found in gardens, but make sure you know what chemicals are being used before doing so. Rinse earthworms well prior, and some people will even squeeze digesting dirt out of the worm as well. I don’t believe that’s necessary so long as you know the soil isn’t contaminated. Back to the top
Gammarus-Color
Also known as a scud, this freshwater shrimp is even higher in astaxanthin than krill making it one of the best color enhancing fish foods. Excellent choice for even turtles as it has been known the improve shell hardness and quality. Due to their larger size, they are better suited for larger fish. Excellent for cichlid, turtles, and other oddballs. While this is a freshwater shrimp, it can be given to marine fish. Excellent source of calcium. Back to the top
Ghost shrimp-Treat
While they are best used as a treat, ghost shrimp are an excellent option when trying to get fussy eaters to eat. This makes them a helpful aid in training fish onto healthier options such as prepared foods. Ghost shrimp are also euryhaline, meaning they can be acclimated to both fresh and saltwater; making them suitable for both freshwater and marine fish. They can also be “gut loaded” to increase their nutritional value by feeding them enriched flake or pellet. Back to the top
Goldfish are a popular live food due to being readily available and low cost. Although they are popular, they are not a good option for feeding many fish. They hold very little nutritional value, are high in fat, and are prone to disease. While you can raise your own goldfish and gut load them prior to feeding, there are still better options as far as live food. Due to being a coldwater fish, goldfish are high in fat that can contribute to fatty liver disease. Fatty liver disease is caused by high fat that cannot be properly digested and can cause a fish to become overweight. Goldfish also contains thiaminase which breaks down thiamin (vitamin B12) and causes a vitamin deficiency which leads to diseases such as Hole In The Head disease (HITH). To learn more about thiaminase, click HERE. Back to the top
Krill is a small marine crustacean that is high in protein, carotenoids, and contains astaxanthin. Krill is an excellent source for naturally enhancing the color of your fish, particularly those with oranges and reds. Due to krill being so rich, this food should not be fed as a staple and supplemented 2 or 3 times per week at most. Back to the top
Readily available at many pet stores, the mealworm is another live food option. The mealworm is the larvae stage of a beetle and should be kept in the refrigerator to keep them in a hibernated state. They typically come in two different sizes; regular, and giant. They should be fed sparingly as their hard shells can be difficult to digest, which can lead to impaction. Back to the top
Minnow (rosy reds/fathead)-Treat
Also known as the rosy red minnow, the fathead minnow is another popular choice for feeder fish. Just like the goldfish, they are readily accessible and low cost. Feeder fish are notorious for carrying diseases and parasites that can be harmful to your fish. This can be reduced by having a strict quarantine process; or better yet, breeding your own feeders. Fathead minnow also contain Thiaminase like the goldfish, as well. Thiaminase is an enzyme that breaks down thiamin (vitamin B12) and causes a vitamin deficiency which leads to diseases such as Hole In The Head disease (HITH). To learn more about thiaminase, click HERE. Back to the top
Mussel-Treat
While you can feed mussels to freshwater fish, it is more common to feed in a marine aquarium. Mussels are meaty choice high in protein and high palatable to even the most finicky fish. They can be fed chopped or whole. Back to the top
Mysis Shrimp-Growth
Slightly more nutritional than adult brine, mysis helps with growth and creating a strong immune system. Natural source for Chitosan. From a frozen standpoint, mysis is a healthier choice over brine. However, feeding these two live; the brine can be easier gut loaded, as well as easier to cultivate. Back to the top
Plankton-Color/Growth
Plankton is high in carotene, which is another good source for naturally enhancing the color of your fish. It is very high in protein as well. It can be fed fresh, frozen, freeze-dried or in flake form. Should be fed as part of a rotation diet or for those fish or invertebrates that require high protein. Back to the top
Silversides are commonly sold whole making them an excellent choice for larger, predatory fish. I have used when weaning carnivorous fish such as peacock bass off of live food. Silversides are often mistaken for smelt, but are actually from a different family of fish and contain no thiaminase. They are often fed to aggressive predatory fish, carnivorous inverts, anemones, and eels. Use caution when feeding silversides as they are not kept with the same care as human grade foods, and can be thawed and refrozen multiple times upon shipment, which could cause them to spoil quickly and make them unsafe. Back to the top
Snails-Health
Most commonly used as food for pufferfish, loach part of the botia family have been known to munch of snails too. Snails are an important part of a puffer’s diet because they aid in filing down the puffer’s teeth. Similar to rodents, puffer’s teeth, or plate, continue to grow with the puffer. Without crunchy food like a snail to wear this plate down, the puffer’s “teeth” will overgrow and make it difficult for them to eat. The puffer will then need to be sedated and require this plate to be filed down.
Not all snails are created equal. It is best to feed your puffer a snail around the same size of it’s eye. Good options for snails will be ramshorn and pond snails. Pond snails are a particularly good option because many LFS consider these a pest and will likely give them to you for free. Snails that are NOT a good option are malaysian trumpet snails (MTS) due to their shells being extremely tough to break through.
Pond snails and ramshorn snails are also extremely easy to propagate at home. To learn more on how to propagate your own snails, click HERE. Back to the top
Spirulina-Color/Health
Spirulina is one of nature’s “superfoods” that is not only good for fish, but humans as well. Spirulina is a blue green algae that is high in protein and one of the best sources of vitamin B12 and beta-carotene. It also contains a high amino acid content and other essential fatty acids, as well as antioxidant capabilities; thus improving immune functions. Not only will it improve the health of your fish, but it is excellent for naturally enhancing the color of your fish. Spirulina is beneficial for all fish, including carnivores so it’s important to integrate it into their diet either through prepared foods or “gut loading” their food, such as crickets. This can be done by giving the crickets food enriched with spirulina prior to feedings. Back to the top
Squid-Growth
Squid is a great option for carnivore and omnivore fish, particularly for saltwater. This supplemental food is great for larger carnivores, inverts, and other fish that require high protein. Great for groupers, lionfish, eels, triggerfish, anemones, and other carnivorous inverts. Back to the top
Superworms-Treat
Often mistaken for the mealworm, the superworm is actually a larvae stage of a different species. Unlike the mealworm, the superworm cannot be kept in the fridge to keep them from transforming into a beetle. The superworm is much larger than it’s counterparts; however, they have a softer shell making them easier to digest. Some people remove the heads of the superworm prior due to stories that superworms have chewed through the stomachs of their animals when not properly eaten. While I haven’t personally debunked these stories, there has been no solid evidence on this deemed “wives tale.” You’re welcome to err on the side of caution and remove the head, but I have never found this necessary.
Superworms can be kept on a variety of “beddings” that they will eat such as oatmeal, oat bran, and wheat germ; but they can also be placed into things such as fish flake to “gut load” them with valuable nutrients and benefiting the fish. Back to the top
Often confused with bloodworms, the tubifex worm is an irresistible treat to many freshwater fish. Due to their smaller size, the tubifex worm is a great option for smaller mouth fish. Since they are easily palatable, they can be used to entice picky fish or fish without an appetite due to reasons such a new environment. Tubifex are known to carry disease and other unwanted pests, so it is highly recommended to only purchase freeze dried, frozen (from those advertising sterilization) or only from a reputable source. In my opinion, there are better options to feed your fish. Back to the top
White worms are another live food option. They are high in fat and protein making them an excellent choice for older fry. Feeding white worms can also help induce a natural breeding response in fish; and since they are easy to propagate, they are a popular choice among breeders and enthusiasts.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 60F-79F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Middle dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active schooling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Variety is key for optimal health Compatibility: Great addition for most larger species community tanks. Should be kept in a group of 6 or more. Avoid timid fish that could get stressed out by this fish’s activity level. Extra: Also known as the Roseline Shark, the Denison Barb is a highly sought after fish. Relatively uncommon, usually wild caught, and with striking colors; makes this fish come with a hefty price tag. They are usually priced between $20-$25 each, which adds up when you keep a school! Regardless of this price, people still desire to keep this beauty; and who could resist? They are mild mannered and make an amazing addition. They are large enough to work as a target/dither fish and can make most larger species aquariums interesting. They are perfect as a school in a discus tank. As stated, they are a schooling fish that should have 6 or more (more being ideal) with plenty of room to swim. Use caution with live plants as they can become uprooted. This species is also accustomed to highly oxygenated water, as well as weekly water changes are a must, as they cannot tolerate poor water conditions.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 74-79° F, KH 4-10, pH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 6″ in wild, realistically 2″-3″ in captivity Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-Aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community Extra:The rosy barb is an excellent choice for beginners. It is hardy and versatile options for tankmates. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: Temp 72F-79F, PH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 2.5″ Tank region: Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. though it is important to have algae included in their diet. Compatibility: Semi-aggressive and larger peaceful community Extra:This hardy barb is less nippy than it’s cousin, the Tiger barb. They can be kept in a peaceful community tank, though they may not work with smaller species such as neon tetra. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior
Photo Credit: Johnny Tijerina“Green and Albino” Photo Credit: Fakhril
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 72F-79F, Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other similar sized community fish. Avoid slow moving, timid, and/or long flowing finned fish Extra:This playful and active fish is a popular choice for beginners ready to try a semi-aggressive fish. They should be in a group of 5 or preferably more, which will reduce aggression and fin nipping. They are a versatile fish that can be kept with many species, though use caution when housing with smaller species or fish with long fins.
Photo Credit: Fakhril (IG)Photo Credit: Sophie Washer
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.3-7.5 Maximum size: 14″ Tank region: Mid dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Vegetable matter should be included in their diet. Compatibility: Can handle aggressive species as long as kept in a school. Avoid small species that can be eaten. Avoid overly timid species. Should be kept in a group of 5 or more. Extra: The Tinfoil Barb is a large schooling fish that would make an excellent choice as a dither/target fish. They are well rounded and can work with most larger species of fish. What they lack in color, they make up for in character. This fish is extremely active and will add plenty of movement to your aquarium. Heavy filtration is a must as this fish can be quite messy, though they are fairly hardy. 100 gallons is the minimum when keeping this fish full grown, but ideally they will need more. A secure lid is also recommended since this fish is known for being a jumper. Back to the top
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 1 gallon Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore based diet consisting of pellet specially designed for betta, freeze dried and/or frozen bloodworms. Compatibility: Peaceful community, avoid overly active tank mates or fish that will nip fins. Males should be kept solo per tank. Females can be housed together with caution. Called the “Siamese Fighting Fish,” the betta has been bred much differently than it’s original purpose. This gaudy little fish comes in a variety of magnificent colors and fin types, making it popular with beginners and experienced alike. While they may not need a filter due to their ability to breath air, it is recommended to have a heater in the tank; particularly if you don’t live in a warm climate. Contrary to belief, bettas can be housed with other fish, though males should be kept apart from one another. A single fish can be housed in a 1 gallon tank (though ideally more) making it a perfect choice for someone who has limited space.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon long Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 17″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 180 gallon long for adults Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 25″ though can reach 27″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: The ornate bichir is considered one of the most attractive of the bichirs and it also get’s quiet large. This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted. Back to the top
Senegal Bichir
(Polypterus senegalus)
Photo Credit: John Michael Ogorek Jr.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon long for single adult species Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 16″ though usually just under 1′ in captivity Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: The Senegal bichir is one of the smaller bichirs and is the most common seen in the hobby. This species of fish is one the last surviving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted. Back to the top
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling and along sides and decorations Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Algae based diet with algae and sinking wafers Compatibility: fine in community tank as juveniles, but as they get larger they can harass fish and attempt to eat their slime coats. Avoid slow moving fish such as bichirs, plecos, discus, and angelfish. Extra: While the Chinese Algae Eater may help with algae issues, there are better options out there. As juvenile, they can help to eliminate some algae. However, as they get older they tend to stop eating algae as much and have been known to get aggressive and bully other fish.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: Mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Scavenger. Will accept high quality pellet or flake as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as mysis, bloodworms, brine, shrimp, etc. Compatibility: Will work in a variety of different types of communities. Enjoy the company of their own species. Perfect choice for African Cichlid Communities. Avoid timid tank mates. Extra: The Featherfin Squeaker is part of the synodontis family and are often mistaken for the upsidedown catfish as juveniles. After they reach about 4″ they are easily distinguished with their tall dorsal. They are extremely hardy and can adapt to many parameters making them a good choice for beginners. While they aren’t necessarily aggressive, they can be quite boisterous, sometimes territorial, and are aggressive eaters making them a poor choice to house with timid eaters. Back to the top
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 74F-84F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-Aggressive. Relatively peaceful compared to other cichlid. Males can be territorial. Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms, and daphnia Compatibility: With other similar temperament fish, avoid small fish that it can eat. Extra: The Blue Acara is a great choice for those wanting to start a cichlid tank. It’s hardy, versatile, and stays a manageable size. Like all cichlid, individual personalities will vary between cichlid. The Blue Acara tends to be one of the more peaceful species. Lots of hiding spots are ideal; though if you decide to use live plants, be sure to choose plants with a sturdy root system or that are floating as the acara tends to dig and unroot delicate plants.
Photo Credit: Andres AdrianzaPhoto Credit: Sophie WasherPhoto Credit: Anuurad
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 5.8-7.0 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Upper-mid dwelling Behavior: Semi Aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community tank, avoid small fish they possibly can eat. Avoid fin nipping species for obvious reasons. Gourami, bottom dwellers, less aggressive barbs, dwarf cichlid are good choices. Extra: The angelfish, now considered a cichlid is a great addition to most community tanks. While the angelfish is given a 2/5 on difficulty, they usually still make a wonderful choice for beginners. They are relatively hardy once they have become stable, though they do need very clean water. They can be somewhat adaptable and do best in a more peaceful community with tank mates that will allow this fish to be king of the tank and will not harass and nip at the angel’s long flowing fins. Individuals may vary, but for the most part the angel is a fairly peaceful fish unless it has formed a breeding pair.
Photo Credit: Ronald Marcos“Orange Flash” Photo credit: Anuurad
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 5.0-7.0, soft Maximum size: 3.5″ Tank region: Bottom Mid dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore mostly. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Can be kept in peaceful community, though can be aggressive with it’s own species. Recommended to keep a dither fish with them. Extra: The Apistogramma is an interesting addition to any collector of dwarf cichlid. There are multiple species of Apistogramma all varying slightly with size and temperament, but this is a general guide for their care. A single pair can be kept in a 10 gallon tank, though it is extremely important to keep their water quality up as this fish can be sensitive to nitrates and poor conditions. They do best in a natural environment with slow moving water, lots of caves and hiding, and lower lighting.
Photo Credit:Ronald MarcosPhoto Credit: Adesh KobalPhoto Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 82F-86F, PH 5.5-7.0, GH Soft Maximum size: 6.5″ Tank region: Upper and mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivorous. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. are particularly important to bring out the bold coloration of this fish. There are foods specifically designed for discus such as Hikari Discus Bio-Gold. Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be con-specific aggressive. Extra: This striking fish has colors that can rival saltwater fish. They can come in a variety of different colors, all being equally stunning. These fish need to have exceptionally clean water with some keepers doing daily large water changes to keep this fish happy. Many people keep discus in planted tanks, but it’s important to keep balance when doing this. Plants love nitrates, and discus tend to have a very low tolerance for them, so it can be a bit tricky when keeping both. While discus are relatively peaceful, they can sometimes be aggressive amongst themselves. To resolve this issue, it can be recommended to keep discus in a group of 5 or more to allow them to create a pecking order.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggressive, can be territorial especially when breeding Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms, Compatibility: Will work in a tank with other similar sized cichlids, can work in larger community tank with fish such as larger molly and gourami. Extra: The Firemouth is a medium sized cichlid that is a great option for beginners looking to try out cichlids. They are extremely hardy, adaptable to water parameters (as long as they aren’t extreme,) and are somewhat diverse for tank mates. While individual personalities can vary greatly among Firemouth; they have been known to be mild enough to house in community tanks, as well as be tough enough to hold their own with larger cichlid. The Firemouth’s downfall is usually it’s stubbornness and bravery. This attribute can get the Firemouth into trouble as it may pick a fight it can’t finish. For the most part though, their aggression is directed only to same or similar looking species. 50 gallons is a tank minimum for full grown Firemouth; but since they are slow growing, they may work in a 30 gallon long until they reach around 3″. Keep in mind this may heighten aggression, however.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Peaceful, semi-aggressive, can be territorial Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other medium sized american cichlids, or in a community with fish that have similar requirements. Extra: This beautiful little cichlid is relatively undemanding and a great option for those looking to keep American cichlids. It is much more peaceful than it’s relative, the convict cichlid. Sometimes mistaken for the convict cichlid, it can be distinguished by it’s striking blue and green hues and smaller size. Expect to have a surplus of fry if you keep a male and a female as they are prolific breeders. Female can be identified by their orange bellies and the males will have a red caudal fin.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be housed with most other calm fish, avoid small fish with full grown keyhole as they can be eaten. Extra: The keyhole is a great choice for beginners since it is a forgiving and adaptable fish. This hardy fish can adapt to many water parameters, though extremes should be avoided and nitrates should be kept to a minimum. While most keyhole are fairly mild mannered, an individual’s temperament can vary.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish Extra: The parrot cichlid, also known as the blood parrot, is actually a man-made hybrid created by multiple different cichlid species. It is speculated this hybrid may include severum, red devil, midas, synspilum, and/or convict cichlid but it has not been confirmed. The Blood Parrot is known for being interactive with their owners and are endeared with their likeness to goldfish. They are highly sought after, particularly in the asian culture and are quite popular.
There is controversy surrounding the blood parrot. This fish was created to intentionally look deformed and because of this, they can have many health issues. Many blood parrots cannot open or close their mouths which makes it especially important not to keep them with more aggressive fish as they cannot defend themselves. They can have spinal issues, swim bladder issues, and other health issues due this hybridization. Many parrots are also sterile, though they have been known to cross breed with other species.
While I tend to have a neutral stance on the subject, many keepers have boycotted the blood parrot due to believing it is unethical. I will not attempt to sway your view on this, but instead encourage you to do your own research and come to your own opinions on this subject.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish. Can be housed with smaller peaceful fish. Extra: The rainbow cichlid is a great choice for beginners looking to start with cichlids that aren’t overly aggressive. They are fairly hardy and adaptable, though it is important to keep up with their water quality. While they are best suited in a 50 gallon or more; a pair could be kept in a 30 gallon. A heavily decorated tank, sandy or muddy substrate, with a moderate light and water flow is an ideal environment for this fish.
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Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: Also known as the Angel Ram, the Balloon Ram, is a man made fish created from the German Blue Ram. Very similar in appearance, the Angel Ram can be distinguished by it’s shorter body and rounded belly. They can be kept in a community setting with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlid, and can be kept solo or in a pair. Like the Blue Ram, the Angel Ram is sensitive to water parameters. In fact, due to the Angel Ram being a malformation it can be more difficult with it’s care since it’s prone to more issues. They require softer water which can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well. Back to the top
Bolivian Ram
(Mikrogeophagus altispinosus)
Photo Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 72-79F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 3.5″ Tank region: Bottom to mid-dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Works well in peaceful community tanks, but can hold themselves with larger fish that aren’t too overly aggressive. Can be mildly aggressive with same species Extra: This little ram is a great alternative to the german ram. While they may not be as visually striking, they are much hardier than their relative. They are fairly undemanding and accepting of many species of fish. If you decide to keep more than one bolivian, it’s important to give them enough territory to avoid aggression. If you can accommodate their territory needs, it can be quite rewarding seeing them interact with one another. A heavily decorated tank, preferably with live plant, moderate to lower lighting, and some driftwood is ideal and in turn you will have a great little fish that will be eager to greet you.
Photo Credit: Jeramm BatesPhoto Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: The German Blue Ram is a dwarf cichlid that is best kept in a community with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlids and can be kept solo or in a pair. They can be sensitive to water parameters and softer water is required. This can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well
“Wild Caught Rotkeil Pair” Photo Credit: Blake Graham
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: Top to Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc as well as fresh veggies like cucumber, lettuce, and peas. Compatibility: Can be housed with larger community fish or cichlid with similar temperaments. Extra: The Severum is generally a mild mannered cichlid who can usually work in a community tank so long as it’s tank mates aren’t small enough to fit in it’s mouth. They are known for being quite destructive with live plants so caution should be used. While classifications are constantly changing, here are a few different types of Severum you should know:
“Gold Severum” Photo Credit: John Michael Ogorek Jr.
The Efasciatus, or Green Severum, is the most commonly seen Severum in the trade. It can come in a few different varieties with green and gold being the most seen. The Heros Appendiculatus, or Turquoise Severum, has now been reclassified under Efasciatus, as well. Also known as the Banded Severum, they display 8-9 bars laterally which will usually disappear with age. This species gets larger and has more girth than the Severus, reaching upwards of 8″-12″. A 75 gallon should be an absolute minimum for an adult and 100 gallons being a more realistic size, especially when keeping more than one.
The Rotkeil is one of the more colorful Severum species and tends to be more expensive. They are not officially classified as of yet, so they are often labeled as Heros sp. Rotkeil. There is debate on the best way to properly identify young Rotkeil and many will argue that the Rotkeil is one of the few species that will have 8 bars. While this advice will be helpful and does seem to ring true, it is still unreliable unfortunately since it’s not always a guarantee. The best way to ensure you are getting the correct fish is to only purchase juveniles from a reputable source.
The Heros Severus, the true mouthbrooder, is often mistaken with the Efasciatus. The Severus, however, is rarely available in the trade. It is more slender and are usually seen no larger than 8″. Therefore, they can be housed in nothing less than a 55 gallon or larger. The Heros Notatus, or Black Spotted Severum, is another uncommon Severum hardly seen in the trade, though they are gaining popularity in recent years.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 for a single fish, 60 gallon for a pair Water parameters: 76F-80F, PH 7.2-7.8 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid to bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. A single Sajica can be housed in a community. Can be aggressive with same species. Can hold it’s own with larger, more aggressive fish. Extra: Also known as the T-bar cichlid, the Sajica is a relatively peaceful medium size cichlid. It is ideal to keep them with other fish of similar size and temperament, but it is fairly adaptable and can live in a community or with larger cichlid. It is not recommended to keep more than one sajica in a community though, as they can become aggressive. They are hardy and can acclimate to most conditions as long as they aren’t extreme.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 9″ Tank region: Middle, bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based, High quality sinking pellet, as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, earthworms, blackworms, and other meat and/or veggie based foods. No floating foods as this species will not go to the surface to eat. Compatibility: Other species of similar size and peaceful temperament. Other peaceful cichlids. Will not tolerate it’s own species unless they are paired. Extra: Blue Sifter, False Firemouth, Robertson’s Cichlid, Turquoise Cichlid; this slow grower goes by many names. Often mistaken for the Firemouth at a young age, this fish is not a common one to see in the trade. They are an attractive fish that can be kept with other peaceful cichlid. They are fairly hardy, however, they can be somewhat timid especially with feeding. They will eat much like a geophagus sifting through the sand, which means they will not go to the surface for food. They are also known to be picky and only eating chopped up earthworms, bloodworms, etc. but with some patience and persistence, have been known to take pellet so long as it sinks. They are a fairly mild mannered fish, though have been known to not tolerate their own species unless they are in a very large aquarium.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 70 gallons Water parameters: 75F-84F, PH 5.5-7.0 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: Mid-Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Include leafy greens if housed with live plants to minimize destruction. Compatibility: Other similar sized fish. Severum, Geos, and other similar sized cichlid are a good choice. Extra: Also known as the panda uaru, this larger cichlid is a more mild mannered fish compared to other cichilds, but it can still hold it’s own against more aggressive species. While they appreciate a heavily planted tank, they can also be quite destructive so choose your plants wisely and add leafy greens to their diet. Uaru are relatively hardy, but it is still important to keep their water quality up as well, as keep good filtration as they produce a lot of waste. </a Back to the top
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallons Water parameters: 72F-79F, PH 7.8-9.0, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Middle to bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other rockdwellers or shelldwellers, canbe housed with other species of similar size and temperament. Extra: The Brichardi is part of the rockdwelling portion of the Neolamprologus family. It is fairly hardy as long as it’s water is kept fairly stable. This species does not do well with larger water changes unless the parameters are fairly similar to their current conditions. It is still up for debate whether or not the Brichardi and the Daffodil are the same species, but for now they are being described as separate species. A 20 gallon is an absolute minimum when keeping a species specific tank, though they need larger if you plan to keep more than one male or a mixed tank. While they can get up to 6″ they are usually seen closer to 4″-5″.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallons Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ for female Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates. Extra: The Brevis is found in Lake Tanganyika and is part of the group called Shelldwellers. The shelldwellers are typically smaller, more peaceful African cichlids. Unlike other shelldwellers, they come from a low density shell location so the males and females can be seen sharing a shell. The Brevis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Multis Shelldweller
(Neolamprologus multifasciatus)
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 1.5″-2″ Males, .75″-1″ Females Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates or any tank mates that can eat them. Extra: This spunky little shelldweller is thought to the smallest cichlid in the world, though it comes with a big personality. They are a fearless fish that will defend their territory ruthlessly making them a perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the fascinating behavior of cichlid on a smaller scale. Multis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallons Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ females Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates. Extra: The Ocellated Shelldweller is one of the more popular and common species of shelldwellers. Though small, they are fierce and will fearlessly defend their territory from intruders such as their keeper’s hand while cleaning their aquarium. They are fairly hardy and more tolerant of water conditions than other shelldwellers making them an excellent choice for keepers looking to have a fascinating fish but may want a smaller aquarium. 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and a 2″ sandbed is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish. </a Back to the top
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Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females Tank region: Bottom to mid dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, can be aggressive when breeding Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, etc. Variety is important. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Barbs and larger tetras are good choice. Avoid slow moving fish such as angels, gouramis, and guppies. Extra: Although the Kribensis is an African species of cichlid, they are found in the rivers and not the lakes. For this reason, their requirements are closer to that of the American cichlids. They are a hardy species and will accept a wide variety of water parameters as long as they aren’t too extreme, and they are fairly undemanding. They are a colorful dwarf cichlid, making them an attractive choice for beginners. Though individual personalities may vary, they are relatively peaceful unless they are breeding. Unless you are prepared to deal with their aggressive nature, I would recommend keeping Kribensis solo or with only the same gender to avoid forming a pair. Make sure to have lots of hiding and a cave is a must since these are a favorite among Kribensis.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-8.8 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggression Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Most Communities, though recommended to keep with larger more similar sized species. Con-specific aggressive, particularly with males. Extra: This medium sized gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, shy Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them. Extra: The dwarf gourami comes in a wide variety of colors such as neon, powder blue, and rainbow. They can add great color to any community tank and are relatively hardy making them a great option for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Dwarf gourami are prone to a disease called Iridovirus though, which about 22% of dwarf gourami have. It is still unclear why it occurs, but some gourami may be infected for years before succumbing to it. While it may be contagious to certain dwarf gourami, other fish are not at risk of this virus. Pearl gourami, thick lipped, banded, and other larger gourami are not affected by this disease.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them. Extra: This dwarf gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 200gallons+ for adults Water parameters: 70F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 28″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Generally mild mannered, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, worms, tubifex, mysis, etc and fresh fruits and veggies Compatibility: Larger community Extra: The giant gourami is the largest of the gourami species. There are a few different species all varying slightly in size, but all get massive. For this reason, the giant gourami is not a suitable choice for most fish keepers. The giant gourami are very personable and will recognize it’s owner with greeting and begging. These fish are omnivores and will eat both fruits and veggies, and live food such as frogs, worms, and smaller fish. Giant gourami are fairly mild mannered, though it seems that juveniles can be a bit feisty with some types of fish and will generally calm down as they mature. Like other gourami, they can get aggressive with one another, particularly the males. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Because of this labyrinth, they can deal with poor water quality fairly well but it’s extremely important to keep up with regular water changes as the giant gourami is highly susceptible to HITH (Hole in the Head disease.)
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid aggressive fish like cichlids. Extra: This gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons, 50 gallons for larger species Water parameters: Maximum size: 6″ though they can get up to 12″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Other larger community fish. Should be monitored closely for bullying Extra: The kissing gourami was named this because this species is known to kiss lips as a display for dominance. The PKG lacks the “feelers” like the other gouramis, but does possess the labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. The PKG can get aggressive at times and should be watched to ensure that it isn’t becoming a bully. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: Sophie WasherPhoto Credit: Dispatch273 (IG) ***Photo Credit: Sophie Washer
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 72F-86F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Most all peaceful or not overly aggressive species. Best kept in a group of 4 or more Extra: The Clown Loach is a popular fish in the trade. With it’s fun personality, bold orange and black colors, and ability to take care of any snail problems; it’s obvious why. The Clown Loach isn’t necessarily a wise choice for beginners, however. While it has fairly low demands, it is particularly prone to diseases such as ich. While many may be deterred by this, think of the Clown Loach as your “indicator.” The Clown Loach will usually always be the first to tell you when something in your tank isn’t right. Whether it’s a temperature swing, water conditions are starting to suffer, or some other underlying issue that would otherwise be unnoticed. Unfortunately, since the Clown Loach is a scaleless fish, it can be intolerant of medications making it difficult to treat any disease that this fish is already prone to. It can also be quite common for Clown Loach to show ich whenever added to a new aquarium. So before you decide to treat your new additions, consider trying a less abrasive method first. A few good days of a generous amount of bloodworms/blackworms being careful not to allow water quality to diminish is usually all it takes to allow the Clown Loach to get back into tip top shape. While a full grown Clown will require a 100 gallon minimum, this fish is extremely slow growing and will realistically take a few years to reach such a size. For this reason, a clown loach under 4″ can work in a 40 gallon for some time and a 55 gallon long until they reach about 6″. This is a shoaling fish that I highly recommend keeping with at least 5 or more (though they’d love to be 10 or more,) and 3 being the absolute minimum.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 8.5″ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Use caution when housing with other bottom dwelling fish that can compete for territory. Best kept in groups of 5 or more Extra: Also known as the Tiger Botia, the Banded Loach/Botia is part of the group of loaches that are known for being quite boisterous. As juveniles they can be somewhat peaceful; but as they get larger, they can become terrors if thought hasn’t gone into their care. They should be kept in a group of 5 or more to reduce aggression issues as well as plenty of hiding areas and territories to avoid competition. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Community, best kept in a group of 3 or more Extra: Looking at the YoYo Loach and you will quickly discover how they got their name. Along their bodies you will see the trademark “Y” “o” markings spelling out “yo.” This smaller species can reach upwards of 5″ though they are usually seen around 2.5″ in captivity. While they can be hardy if their needs are met, they may not be a great choice for beginners as they require pristine water conditions and can be prone to disease if these needs are not met. They should be kept in a group of 3 or more, though a group of 6 or more is more ideal. They are relatively peaceful and make a great choice for community tanks, though they can be seen squabbling amongst themselves in a fight for dominance. This is normal and typical behavior for these fish. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: Ronald MarcosPhoto Credit: Sean Foley
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top dwelling Behavior: Generally peaceful, but will eat other fish especially top dwelling fish. Diet: Can be trained to eat a variety of frozen, freezedried, or flake/pellet. Love insects and crickets. Compatibility: Peaceful similar sized or larger sized fish. Avoid small fish it can eat. Avoid fin nipping fish that can harass the butterfly. Extra: These oddballs are called butterflyfish because they slightly resemble a butterfly with their fins spread out and they also have the ability to jump out of the water and glide at the water’s surface. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a secure lid at all times. They like heavily decorated tanks, especially with floating plants they can hide in and moderate water flow. They can be quite finicky when it comes to food as well as sensitive to poor water quality giving them a 3/5 in difficulty.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 20″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Mild mannered, mostly conspecific aggressive Diet: Carnivore based with live or frozen food such as bloodworms, blackworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, etc. May possibly accept pellets. Compatibility: Other tankmates of similar size and temperament. Avoid small fish and invertebrates that can fit in this fish’s mouth. Avoid same species and relatives of the ghost knife. Extra: The Black Ghost Knifefish is one of the more commonly available species part of this family. A little hardier than some of it’s relatives, it is still considered fairly difficult to care for. While part of the Apteronotus family, and have an electrical pulse similar to the mormyridae family. With this organ, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each species will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Knifefish require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft substrate. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other scaleless fish, they require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt, though the Black Ghost Knifefish has been known to be a little more tolerant than other species.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, predatory Diet: Carnivore, can be trained to take pellet. Will eat frozen foods such as prawns, bloodworms, mussles, etc. Compatibility: Similar sized or larger species of fish. Avoid small fish or overly aggressive fish Extra: The leopard ctenopoma is an usual fish that most oddball collectors would love to keep. They are unbelievably hardy and have even impressed me with their durability. While they are generally peaceful with most tank mates , they can predate small fish. Surprisingly, their mouths can open much wider than some may realize which can be around the size of a quarter when extended. A unique behavior the ctenopoma exhibits is mimicking a leaf. This is done by the ctenopoma pointing it’s nose downward and curling it’s tail to the side to resemble a leaf, then it will float near an unsuspecting fish or bug and ambush. They also seem to do it as a defense mechanism. When my ctenopoma does it, I call it his “awkward leaf” dance as he’ll almost moonwalk out of the tricky situation.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0, Brackish 1.005-1.008 sg Maximum size: 2′ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Peaceful, con-specific Semi-aggressive Diet: Frozen or live blackworms, bloodworms, daphnia, plankton, etc. Can be trained onto a quality pellet. Compatibility: Community, avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: This prehistoric looking fish isn’t quite as fierce as it’s appearance may lead to believe. The dragon goby is actually fairly mild mannered in nature, though they can be pushy if not given it’s own space. While it has a large mouth, it isn’t known for predating small fish and instead uses it’s large mouth to gulp in water to catch small food particles. While they are usually sold in the freshwater section, these are best kept brackish. They are perfectly fine starting off in freshwater, but in order for them to thrive and live a full life; it is recommended that they eventually have a low salinity. For this reason, it’s recommended to keep this fish with other species that are tolerant to mild brackish conditions. They can grow up to 2′ in the wild, but are usually seen closer to 15″ in captivity. In freshwater they grow much slower, as well. They should be kept on a sand substrate or avoid gravel with sharp edges that can injure the dragon goby’s soft belly. Weekly water changes are a must as this fish is incredibly sensitive to ammonia and will be seen gulping at the surface with even the smallest traces of ammonia present.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon for single puffer, additional 5 gallons each additional Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 1″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, territorial Diet: Snails, frozen and live foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, krill, brine, etc. Rarely will accept pellet or flake. Compatibility: Best kept solo, but can work in community if given enough space. Avoid slow moving fish, long flowing fins, or overly aggressive fish. Extra: The Dwarf Puffer, or Pea Puffer, is a true freshwater puffer and an irresistible little fish that many will be tempted to add to their aquariums. Before you impulsively purchase one of these charming creatures be aware of the challenges that lay ahead. While they only get up to a whopping 1″, they require more space than people realize, especially if keeping with tank mates. Even with plenty of space, they are still known for nipping at almost all of their neighbors once given the chance. Since tank mates can be a bit tricky, it may be best to keep this as a solo mini wet pet. If you do decide to take on the Pea Puffer, you will be rewarded with a comical and interactive fish that will entertain for hours. Unlike most puffers, they do not require snails to file down their teeth. Back to the top
Elephant nose
(Gnathonemus petersii)
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Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 40 gallon for single adult Water parameters: 73F-80F, PH 6.5-7.0 Maximum size: 9″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, conspecific Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore based diet of live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, blackworms, etc. Compatibility: Community Avoid overly active tankmates that can outcompete for food. Avoid other mormyrids. Can be kept with peaceful cichlid, angel, smaller peaceful catfish, larger tetra. Extra: The Elephant Nose is a unique fish that is fairly uncommon among fish keepers. Part of the mormyridae family, they can be distinguished by their long “trunks” used to scavenge for food. Like other mormyrid, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each morymrid will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Morymrids require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft sandy substrate. It is extremely important that these fish are kept on a soft sandy substrate because gravel and other hard substrates can damage and even break their “trunks”. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other mormyrids, these require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon, 5 gallon for single pair Water parameters: 65F-78F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 2.5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, bloodworms, spirulina, etc. Algae should be included in their diet and needs to be supplemented if there is no algae present in aquarium. Compatibility: Community, can become nippy with with some species of fish. Males can sometimes become aggressive with one another. Extra: Named for their bright and colorful markings, the American Flag Fish is an extremely hardy and adaptable fish making it a wonderful choice for beginners. They make a great addition in community tanks, planted tanks, and ponds due to their diverse nature and tolerance. Often overlooked, they are a great choice for algae control that can surprise even the siamese algae eater and pleco! With their small size and hardy nature, they make a wonderful alternative to these choices. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: bcprettyfish_ (IG)Photo Credit: Ronald Marcus
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 61F-79F, PH 5.8-8.0 Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females Tank region: All over, mostly top to mid dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, males conspecific aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Females can work in community. Males should be with larger, peaceful community. Avoid housing males together, this includes relatives such as the gourami Extra: The Paradise Fish is one of the first fish ever kept in the hobby alongside the goldfish. The Paradise is part of the group of fish with the Labyrinth organ which allows them to gulp at the waters surface in oxygen depleted waters. They are extremely hardy and adaptable making them a great choice for beginners. Their beautiful colors and intelligence makes them an interesting addition for any keeper, as well. While females are fairly tolerant of tank mates, care should be given when housing a male. They can be fairly aggressive towards other males of the same species, relatives, and other fish they just may not take a liking to. Due to the thought needed when choosing tank mates; the Paradise fish is rated 2/5 to an otherwise perfectly easy fish.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: Mid dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community, avoid species small enough for them to eat. Great choice as target/dither fish in American Cichlid tanks Extra: The Bala Shark is a popular fish in the hobby, especially with children due to their similar appearance to shark. Even though, they are called the Bala Shark, they aren’t a shark at all! While they make a great choice for beginners due to their hardy nature, they aren’t suitable for those beginners starting their first smaller tank. These cute little guys will grow up to a foot and a half and they will do so quickly! They are a shoaling and active species and should be in a group of 3 or more (ideally more) and therefore a 75 gallon is the absolute minimum with a 125-180 gallon being much more practical.
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Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc. Compatibility: Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish. Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Rainbow Shark is not actually a shark at all! This attractive fish makes a great addition to many semi-aggressive aquariums, though thought should still be given to tank mates. Often mistaken for it’s relative, the Red Tail Shark, it tends to be somewhat more mild mannered. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. While the Rainbow does best as the only shark in the tank, it can be kept with other Rainbows as long as there is at least 55 gallons and a minimum of 6 together. If there aren’t more than 6 of these the aggression will not be evenly displaced and one fish may become over-bullied. Back to the top
Red tail shark
(Epalzeorhynchos bicolor)
Photo Credit: BCPRETTYFISH_
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, cons-pecific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc. Compatibility:Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish. Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Red Tail Shark is not a shark at all! Often mistaken with the Rainbow Shark, the Red Tail is known for being more aggressive. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. The Red Tail is also usually smaller than the Rainbow measuring usually around 4″, though they can reach up to 6″. It is recommended to not house this species with any other sharks or similar looking species as they can become quite aggressive.
So you’re ready to add fish! Where do you start? The first thing to figure out would be what temperament of fish you want to keep. I always recommend beginners starting with peaceful community fish before attempting to try anything a little complicated like cichlid. Remember, nothing is set in stone. Once you have the hang of things, you can always change your stock. It’s also a good idea to start off with some hardier, more forgiving species, before attempting to try some delicate fish. The next thing to keep in mind would be your tank size. Did you start with something under 10 gallons or do you have something a little larger? Are you looking for have a few larger species or did you want to have more movement and keep a lot of little fish? These are the questions you should be asking yourself before adding any fish. It’s important to know what YOU want.
“1′ per gallon rule”
I’m sure by now you have heard of the 1″ per gallon rule. Here’s the problem with this “rule.” There is no exact science when creating a community of fish as there are just too many variables. Temperament, activity level, and SWIMMING LEVEL are just a few of the many variables to take into account. The most important thing to start off with is the type of fish you plan to keep, but if you want to hear a more accurate form of measurement when knowing how much you can stock, click here. Remember, even that is simply a guideline.
Definitions
Here are some helpful definitions that will need to know:
Peaceful/Community– These are fish that are generally mild mannered and can be kept with other community fish.
Semi-Aggressive– These are fish that also work in a community, but can become aggressive under certain circumstances.
Con-specific Aggressive-These are fish that are considered mostly just aggressive with their same species.
Aggressive-These are fish that can be aggressive and territorial, particularly to same gender. It is recommended to keep these fish with other fish of the same temperament, alone, or with sturdy, larger fish that can tolerate them.
Predator/”Opportunists” – These are fish that aren’t necessarily aggressive and can generally be mild mannered; but given the opportunity to eat another fish, they would gladly do so. Keep with fish larger than it can swallow (and maybe even just a bit bigger) but will not harass or harm this otherwise passive fish.
Schooling Fish-a group of fish of the same species that stay together in a coordinated manner for survival and should be kept with a minimum of 5 to feel comfortable.
Shoaling Fish-a group of fish that stick together for more social reasons and should be kept with at least 2 or 3 of the same species to feel comfortable.
Swimming Level-There are top dwelling, mid-dwelling, and bottom dwelling fish. Therefore, if you keep strictly bottom dwelling fish this equation should reflect this choice and you theoretically will not be able to keep as many fish.
Cycling can feel like a long and tedious process for beginners and advanced aquarist alike. Whether you are cycling with fish or doing a fish-less cycle, I will do what I can to share with you some of the tips I have learned that will make this process just a little bit easier for you.
Seeding is when you take a bacteria colony from an already established tank and put it into your new tank. Seeding can be used to help both a fishless cycle and a fish in cycle, and by having some already established media, you will be shortening the cycling process greatly. At some point I may add in different measurements of seeded material to this article, but to avoid confusing anyone further; I want to simply explain the benefits and materials that can be used. For now, just know that the more seeded material you can use, the better as it shortens the process the more you use. You can ask a friend with an aquarium or your LFS for some of this media. Here is a list of some of the things it can be;
handful of substrate (preferably some that is due for a cleaning)
used filter media (filter pads, ceramic rings, filter floss, biomedia balls)
porous decorations or piece of driftwood
Sponge specifically put into established tank’s filter for a few weeks
Filter, especially sponge filters. Click here to learn more
*Keep in mind that old tank water will not have enough established bacteria to seed a tank. Also keep any seeded material WET at all times with old tank water to ensure you do not kill off any colonies*
Once you have gotten a hold of some seeding material there are a few different ways you can add it to your tank, this is more of a preference with how you choose to incorporate it. If you do not plan on keeping the seeding material in your tank permanently, you can put it into new unwashed nylon stocking/pantyhose (but make sure you rinse stocking/pantyhose under tap water first) and hang them inside your tank, or you can put it in your filter if it’s a seeded filter media or a sponge. Click here to learn about the risks in seeding.
Seeded filter
The filter is the heart of any aquarium; not only does it remove waste from the water, but it also holds the majority of your colonies. Almost all types of filters can be used to seed. The easiest is the sponge filter; it has many uses, but the biggest is for seeding material. You can have a sponge filter running in your tank at all times for insurance purposes. It gives you an established colony ready to be used at all times. Whether it’s to set up a quarantine tank, hospital tank, new tank, or friend’s tank; you will have a filter that’s potentially ready to go without even the need for cycling.
Many people measure the amount of gallons these filters were seeded in as a gauge for the amount of colonies. I don’t personally believe it has anything to do with the amount of gallons, and has more to do with the size of the filter and the amount of fish it was seeded with. For example; a filter that was used in a 50 gallon tank with 3 fish will not have the same amount of seeding material as a filter used in a 50 gallon tank with 10 fish of the same size. The latter filter will theoretically be able to support more fish at start up. With this same theory, if you were to move all of a seeded material into a larger tank it would still be able to house the same amount of fish as before, regardless of a tank even twice the size. Keep in mind, that seeded material isn’t just the filter, it would be substrate and all of the decorations. Therefore, if you did decide to use just a seeded filter, you would need to take this into account and consider your seeded filter could support around half of the amount of fish it was supporting before.
Useful Products
My goal is to give you a list of products that can help your cycling process no matter the method you choose. For now I will simply discuss the benefits of some probiotics and dechlorinators.
Probiotics
Not all probiotics are created equal. There are many different products on the market that will claim to give your tank an “instant cycle,” but please take this information with a grain of salt and realize that many of these can be gimmicks. Quality probiotics can help a cycle along, especially if you decide to add fish immediatly. I keep a probiotic in my household simply because it’s just a nice addition, much like a yogurt is good for our gut. I use probiotics if I cycle a tank, do a large water change, or start a medication. I have used Seachem Stability and Nitromax and have had success with them. There are other great products out there and there are also some that do not help at all, but I haven’t personally used them. It doesn’t hurt to add a probiotic, but don’t use it as your main cycling tool.
Dechlorinators
Some dechlorinators, not all, will help detoxify ammonia and nitrites. Products such as Seachem Prime and Amquel Plus are great options to not only make your tap water safe, but to help make ammonia and nitrites less harmful during the cycling process. They can be helpful tools, especially for fish-in cycles, but be sure not to add it more than every 24 hours.
Plants
Live plants can be used to help absorb ammonia during the cycling process. Besides possibly having a small amount of beneficial bacteria from another aquarium, it is not meant to cycle a tank on it’s own. Plants can be used to help absorb ammonia and nitrates making it less toxic for fish. While even a little plant will be somewhat useful in detoxifying ammonia, it does require a tank to have a much higher plant to fish ratio in order to be effective in cycling a tank. Do not simply add some plants in hopes that it will make cycling easier because plant keeping can be difficult on it’s own. You will need to know the requirements of the plants you’re keeping, and realize that many plants will need a quality plant light and a substrate that is specific for plants. If you do plan on adding plants regardless, I’d definitely recommend adding some when you add your fish since they can be at least help a little bit. Having plants die in your tank can be counterproductive, so make sure to choose a hardy, easier plant such as anubias, java fern, and/or some swords and avoid carpet/runners and high light plants until you are a little more comfortable.
Strategies
Heat
Warmer temperatures helps speed up the cycling process, but keep in mind that warmer water also reduces oxygen in the water and can be stressful for fish. Ideally you will want to have your temperature set up 86F, but please only do so if you are doing a fishless cycle. If you are doing a fish-in cycle, depending on the type of fish you have; you can have your heat set between 77F-81F but make sure that you have an additional oxygen source. Read below on ways to increase oxygen.
Increased Oxygen
The increase in oxygen in a tank will also help speed up the cycling process. To increase the amount of oxygen in your tank you will need an airstone (though for a larger tank you may need multiple airstones,) lower your water level to create more agitation at the surface with your filter, add a spraybar to the output of your filter, and/or a powerhead. Keep in mind that powerheads should only be used with fish that don’t require calmer waters as this can exhaust them quickly, as well as make sure to use the appropriate size since many powerheads could create too strong of a current.
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