With such incredible photos, it was easy for Alexander Eng to become one of my favorite photographers to date. Besides fish, he’s been able to capture a wide range of images from around the world; as well as in his home of Singapore.
AquaMojo is another incredible fish photographer that continues to amaze me. If you’ve ever looked up fish pictures online, particularly those of cichlid, then you have likely come across some of his stunning photos.
Aqua Medic Live is a high end company that carries some of the best coral and invertebrates around. They have a stunning selection of coral from many regions that will surely blow your mind. They even carry Real Reef live rock! If your a shop looking to add quality product stock, look no further.
Conway’s videos are educational and have helped countless in our community. I highly advise checking out his videos, particularly pertaining to disease and medication.
Since this industry is ever changing, I’m always checking out the latest and greatest new products out there. Eheim has been around for quite awhile and the majority of my equipment is Eheim made, and there’s a reason for this. This German-made brand is reliable and long lasting, and they also have warranties on their products.
While I’m not a fish food fanboy, I am a huge fan of Hikari. I believe that variety is key to any successful aquarium so I feed multiple brands in my aquariums. Hikari is one of the top foods that I personally feed and my fish go crazy for it.
Mr. Mann is a fellow enthusiast that also has a talent for photography. Through his talent, Mr. Mann allows us to meet some of the most wicked cichlid species around.
I’m a supporter of Real Reef because not only is it better for the environment, but you also don’t run the risk of potentially danger hitchhikers that you may find in the ocean. Real Reef is a man-made rock that is specifically designed for your saltwater aquarium. They are constantly evolving and finding better ways to create their rock. This is the only live rock that I personally keep in my saltwater aquariums.
The Sandbar Pet Shop is a quaint family owned business in the heart of Orange County, CA that I had the pleasure of working with for some time. They’ve been around since the 70s and have been known for their unique selection of animals. They have everything from reptiles, birds, kittens, to fish. Don’t be fooled the fact that they are a full petshop, they absolutely specialize in fish and coral.
Seachem has a vast line of everything from medications to buffers. Seachem is a well known, reputable company that I have personally used and I’ve recommended to customers with success.
Southern Delight is a newer company that continues to grow. They take pride in their quality and competitive prices and just recently reformulated with fish in mind. I have included this food to my fish’s diet and so far have had positive results. While this product is not as readily available, it can be ordered through it’s many distributors.
If you’ve taken the next step in serious fish keeping, then you’ve likely stepped into the world of fish diet. If you’ve opened up the freezer at your local fish store, I’m sure you’ve already come to realize that there are tons of options to choose from. So where do you start? What would be best for your fish? In part 1. of this series, I will be discussing some of the single ingredient options that you may encounter. The best choice is not going to be a single choice. It will be full of variety to keep your fish healthy, happy, and balanced.
Here is a list of some of the single ingredient options you may encounter:
often confused with tubifex worms, the california black worm holds more nutritional value and is typically cultivated in a cleaner and safer method. While tubifex worms have been slammed for transmitting parasite and disease, the blackworms are typically a safer alternative. Blackworms are an excellent source of protein, aid in growth, and are highly palatable, making them a good choice for picky fish. Due to their richness, live blackworms should only be fed as a treat for most fish.
Whether a fish is new, sick, or having a hard time eating; I will use live blackworms as a tool to boost a fish’s moral and immune system to allow them to become stronger. For example; new clown loach are prone to ich when first being introduced to a tank. These clown loach are quite sensitive to many many medications, particularly those specifically for ich since they contain copper. Instead of jumping straight to the medications, I will feed clown loach live black worms until their little bellies get fat for at least 3 days. For the most part, the clown loach will become strong enough to combate the parasite on their own.
The bloodworm is the larval stage of the midge fly and gets its name by its red color. Intended for more carnivore based diets, it is high in protein and minerals and can aid in color enhancing. Due to this high protein content, it should be fed sparingly as a treat and most fish should be limited to feeding it once or twice a week. Back to the top
Brine-Growth
A favorite for many fish, it is great for conditioning fish for breeding and as a treat. High in amino acids, it holds most of its nutritional value when first hatched. It holds very little nutrition in its adult state and vitamins should be added either by the manufacturer or at home with products such as Selcon. Baby brine is a great option for fry as it’s very small and aids in fast growth.
When first hatched, baby brine is has high fatty acid levels; but this quickly diminishes as the egg sack disappears. While it is thought that adult brine holds no nutritional value much like a rice cake, many manufacturers will enrich it with vitamins and minerals. Live brine can also be “gut loaded” at home with products such as Selcon, making an excellent choice to include in your fish’s diet. Back to the top
Crickets can be given as a treat for freshwater fish, particularly those whose diet naturally consists of insects. Crickets are an excellent choice for baby arowana and many cichlid. While it crickets may contain protein, it is still recommended to “gut load” the crickets prior by feeding them beneficial to the fish such as a high quality fish food. Make sure to get your crickets from a reputable source and that is pesticide free. Back to the top
Daphnia-Fry/Health
Also called the water flea, daphnia is a small crustacean that is great for small or baby fish, though many fish find their taste irresistible. Its low in fat and aids in digestion. Daphnia contains most Vitamin A and Vitamin D, and smaller amounts of Vitamin C and Vitamin B; making this little crustacean a healthy option to include in your fish’s diet. You can find daphnia is frozen form and although it’s not as readily available in stores live, they can easily be cultivated at home. Back to the top
Earthworms-Treat
Another live food option that is an excellent source of protein. They are suitable for larger carnivorous fish or they can be chopped up for smaller fish. Make sure that you get your earthworms from a reputable source to reduce the risk of disease/bacteria. They can be found in gardens, but make sure you know what chemicals are being used before doing so. Rinse earthworms well prior, and some people will even squeeze digesting dirt out of the worm as well. I don’t believe that’s necessary so long as you know the soil isn’t contaminated. Back to the top
Gammarus-Color
Also known as a scud, this freshwater shrimp is even higher in astaxanthin than krill making it one of the best color enhancing fish foods. Excellent choice for even turtles as it has been known the improve shell hardness and quality. Due to their larger size, they are better suited for larger fish. Excellent for cichlid, turtles, and other oddballs. While this is a freshwater shrimp, it can be given to marine fish. Excellent source of calcium. Back to the top
Ghost shrimp-Treat
While they are best used as a treat, ghost shrimp are an excellent option when trying to get fussy eaters to eat. This makes them a helpful aid in training fish onto healthier options such as prepared foods. Ghost shrimp are also euryhaline, meaning they can be acclimated to both fresh and saltwater; making them suitable for both freshwater and marine fish. They can also be “gut loaded” to increase their nutritional value by feeding them enriched flake or pellet. Back to the top
Goldfish are a popular live food due to being readily available and low cost. Although they are popular, they are not a good option for feeding many fish. They hold very little nutritional value, are high in fat, and are prone to disease. While you can raise your own goldfish and gut load them prior to feeding, there are still better options as far as live food. Due to being a coldwater fish, goldfish are high in fat that can contribute to fatty liver disease. Fatty liver disease is caused by high fat that cannot be properly digested and can cause a fish to become overweight. Goldfish also contains thiaminase which breaks down thiamin (vitamin B12) and causes a vitamin deficiency which leads to diseases such as Hole In The Head disease (HITH). To learn more about thiaminase, click HERE. Back to the top
Krill is a small marine crustacean that is high in protein, carotenoids, and contains astaxanthin. Krill is an excellent source for naturally enhancing the color of your fish, particularly those with oranges and reds. Due to krill being so rich, this food should not be fed as a staple and supplemented 2 or 3 times per week at most. Back to the top
Readily available at many pet stores, the mealworm is another live food option. The mealworm is the larvae stage of a beetle and should be kept in the refrigerator to keep them in a hibernated state. They typically come in two different sizes; regular, and giant. They should be fed sparingly as their hard shells can be difficult to digest, which can lead to impaction. Back to the top
Minnow (rosy reds/fathead)-Treat
Also known as the rosy red minnow, the fathead minnow is another popular choice for feeder fish. Just like the goldfish, they are readily accessible and low cost. Feeder fish are notorious for carrying diseases and parasites that can be harmful to your fish. This can be reduced by having a strict quarantine process; or better yet, breeding your own feeders. Fathead minnow also contain Thiaminase like the goldfish, as well. Thiaminase is an enzyme that breaks down thiamin (vitamin B12) and causes a vitamin deficiency which leads to diseases such as Hole In The Head disease (HITH). To learn more about thiaminase, click HERE. Back to the top
Mussel-Treat
While you can feed mussels to freshwater fish, it is more common to feed in a marine aquarium. Mussels are meaty choice high in protein and high palatable to even the most finicky fish. They can be fed chopped or whole. Back to the top
Mysis Shrimp-Growth
Slightly more nutritional than adult brine, mysis helps with growth and creating a strong immune system. Natural source for Chitosan. From a frozen standpoint, mysis is a healthier choice over brine. However, feeding these two live; the brine can be easier gut loaded, as well as easier to cultivate. Back to the top
Plankton-Color/Growth
Plankton is high in carotene, which is another good source for naturally enhancing the color of your fish. It is very high in protein as well. It can be fed fresh, frozen, freeze-dried or in flake form. Should be fed as part of a rotation diet or for those fish or invertebrates that require high protein. Back to the top
Silversides are commonly sold whole making them an excellent choice for larger, predatory fish. I have used when weaning carnivorous fish such as peacock bass off of live food. Silversides are often mistaken for smelt, but are actually from a different family of fish and contain no thiaminase. They are often fed to aggressive predatory fish, carnivorous inverts, anemones, and eels. Use caution when feeding silversides as they are not kept with the same care as human grade foods, and can be thawed and refrozen multiple times upon shipment, which could cause them to spoil quickly and make them unsafe. Back to the top
Snails-Health
Most commonly used as food for pufferfish, loach part of the botia family have been known to munch of snails too. Snails are an important part of a puffer’s diet because they aid in filing down the puffer’s teeth. Similar to rodents, puffer’s teeth, or plate, continue to grow with the puffer. Without crunchy food like a snail to wear this plate down, the puffer’s “teeth” will overgrow and make it difficult for them to eat. The puffer will then need to be sedated and require this plate to be filed down.
Not all snails are created equal. It is best to feed your puffer a snail around the same size of it’s eye. Good options for snails will be ramshorn and pond snails. Pond snails are a particularly good option because many LFS consider these a pest and will likely give them to you for free. Snails that are NOT a good option are malaysian trumpet snails (MTS) due to their shells being extremely tough to break through.
Pond snails and ramshorn snails are also extremely easy to propagate at home. To learn more on how to propagate your own snails, click HERE. Back to the top
Spirulina-Color/Health
Spirulina is one of nature’s “superfoods” that is not only good for fish, but humans as well. Spirulina is a blue green algae that is high in protein and one of the best sources of vitamin B12 and beta-carotene. It also contains a high amino acid content and other essential fatty acids, as well as antioxidant capabilities; thus improving immune functions. Not only will it improve the health of your fish, but it is excellent for naturally enhancing the color of your fish. Spirulina is beneficial for all fish, including carnivores so it’s important to integrate it into their diet either through prepared foods or “gut loading” their food, such as crickets. This can be done by giving the crickets food enriched with spirulina prior to feedings. Back to the top
Squid-Growth
Squid is a great option for carnivore and omnivore fish, particularly for saltwater. This supplemental food is great for larger carnivores, inverts, and other fish that require high protein. Great for groupers, lionfish, eels, triggerfish, anemones, and other carnivorous inverts. Back to the top
Superworms-Treat
Often mistaken for the mealworm, the superworm is actually a larvae stage of a different species. Unlike the mealworm, the superworm cannot be kept in the fridge to keep them from transforming into a beetle. The superworm is much larger than it’s counterparts; however, they have a softer shell making them easier to digest. Some people remove the heads of the superworm prior due to stories that superworms have chewed through the stomachs of their animals when not properly eaten. While I haven’t personally debunked these stories, there has been no solid evidence on this deemed “wives tale.” You’re welcome to err on the side of caution and remove the head, but I have never found this necessary.
Superworms can be kept on a variety of “beddings” that they will eat such as oatmeal, oat bran, and wheat germ; but they can also be placed into things such as fish flake to “gut load” them with valuable nutrients and benefiting the fish. Back to the top
Often confused with bloodworms, the tubifex worm is an irresistible treat to many freshwater fish. Due to their smaller size, the tubifex worm is a great option for smaller mouth fish. Since they are easily palatable, they can be used to entice picky fish or fish without an appetite due to reasons such a new environment. Tubifex are known to carry disease and other unwanted pests, so it is highly recommended to only purchase freeze dried, frozen (from those advertising sterilization) or only from a reputable source. In my opinion, there are better options to feed your fish. Back to the top
White worms are another live food option. They are high in fat and protein making them an excellent choice for older fry. Feeding white worms can also help induce a natural breeding response in fish; and since they are easy to propagate, they are a popular choice among breeders and enthusiasts.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 60F-79F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Middle dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active schooling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Variety is key for optimal health Compatibility: Great addition for most larger species community tanks. Should be kept in a group of 6 or more. Avoid timid fish that could get stressed out by this fish’s activity level. Extra: Also known as the Roseline Shark, the Denison Barb is a highly sought after fish. Relatively uncommon, usually wild caught, and with striking colors; makes this fish come with a hefty price tag. They are usually priced between $20-$25 each, which adds up when you keep a school! Regardless of this price, people still desire to keep this beauty; and who could resist? They are mild mannered and make an amazing addition. They are large enough to work as a target/dither fish and can make most larger species aquariums interesting. They are perfect as a school in a discus tank. As stated, they are a schooling fish that should have 6 or more (more being ideal) with plenty of room to swim. Use caution with live plants as they can become uprooted. This species is also accustomed to highly oxygenated water, as well as weekly water changes are a must, as they cannot tolerate poor water conditions.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 74-79° F, KH 4-10, pH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 6″ in wild, realistically 2″-3″ in captivity Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-Aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community Extra:The rosy barb is an excellent choice for beginners. It is hardy and versatile options for tankmates. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: Temp 72F-79F, PH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 2.5″ Tank region: Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. though it is important to have algae included in their diet. Compatibility: Semi-aggressive and larger peaceful community Extra:This hardy barb is less nippy than it’s cousin, the Tiger barb. They can be kept in a peaceful community tank, though they may not work with smaller species such as neon tetra. It is important to keep this fish in a group of at least 5 or more to reduce aggression and fin nipping behavior
Photo Credit: Johnny Tijerina“Green and Albino” Photo Credit: Fakhril
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 72F-79F, Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, active shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other similar sized community fish. Avoid slow moving, timid, and/or long flowing finned fish Extra:This playful and active fish is a popular choice for beginners ready to try a semi-aggressive fish. They should be in a group of 5 or preferably more, which will reduce aggression and fin nipping. They are a versatile fish that can be kept with many species, though use caution when housing with smaller species or fish with long fins.
Photo Credit: Fakhril (IG)Photo Credit: Sophie Washer
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.3-7.5 Maximum size: 14″ Tank region: Mid dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, cyclops, algae, mysis, etc. Vegetable matter should be included in their diet. Compatibility: Can handle aggressive species as long as kept in a school. Avoid small species that can be eaten. Avoid overly timid species. Should be kept in a group of 5 or more. Extra: The Tinfoil Barb is a large schooling fish that would make an excellent choice as a dither/target fish. They are well rounded and can work with most larger species of fish. What they lack in color, they make up for in character. This fish is extremely active and will add plenty of movement to your aquarium. Heavy filtration is a must as this fish can be quite messy, though they are fairly hardy. 100 gallons is the minimum when keeping this fish full grown, but ideally they will need more. A secure lid is also recommended since this fish is known for being a jumper. Back to the top
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 1 gallon Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore based diet consisting of pellet specially designed for betta, freeze dried and/or frozen bloodworms. Compatibility: Peaceful community, avoid overly active tank mates or fish that will nip fins. Males should be kept solo per tank. Females can be housed together with caution. Called the “Siamese Fighting Fish,” the betta has been bred much differently than it’s original purpose. This gaudy little fish comes in a variety of magnificent colors and fin types, making it popular with beginners and experienced alike. While they may not need a filter due to their ability to breath air, it is recommended to have a heater in the tank; particularly if you don’t live in a warm climate. Contrary to belief, bettas can be housed with other fish, though males should be kept apart from one another. A single fish can be housed in a 1 gallon tank (though ideally more) making it a perfect choice for someone who has limited space.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon long Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 17″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 180 gallon long for adults Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 25″ though can reach 27″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: The ornate bichir is considered one of the most attractive of the bichirs and it also get’s quiet large. This species of fish is one the last suriving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted. Back to the top
Senegal Bichir
(Polypterus senegalus)
Photo Credit: John Michael Ogorek Jr.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon long for single adult species Water parameters: 76F-86F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 16″ though usually just under 1′ in captivity Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory though relatively peaceful Diet: Carnivorous. Live or frozen meaty foods such as prawns, mussels, worms, etc. May tank a pellet that is carnivore based. Compatibility: Larger species that will not fit in it’s mouth. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates that will pick on the slow moving bichir. Extra: The Senegal bichir is one of the smaller bichirs and is the most common seen in the hobby. This species of fish is one the last surviving relatives of an ancient species dating back to the triassic period. This living dinosaur fish is an extremely hardy species, though it may not be a wise choice for beginners. Getting over a foot long means that it is only suitable for large aquariums as well as large tank mates. This fish is relatively peaceful, though it is an opportunist and cannot be trusted around fish that can fit in it’s mouth. Like Ananbantoids, this fish needs to have the water level at least 1″ from the rim so that it can have access to oxygen or it is at risk of drowning. This fish may not take pellets and should have it’s diet accommodated for to ensure it’s receiving proper nutrition; which is why this fish has received a 2/5 in difficulty. Bichirs need a tightly covered lid with no holes and avoid plants as they can be unrooted. Back to the top
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling and along sides and decorations Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Algae based diet with algae and sinking wafers Compatibility: fine in community tank as juveniles, but as they get larger they can harass fish and attempt to eat their slime coats. Avoid slow moving fish such as bichirs, plecos, discus, and angelfish. Extra: While the Chinese Algae Eater may help with algae issues, there are better options out there. As juvenile, they can help to eliminate some algae. However, as they get older they tend to stop eating algae as much and have been known to get aggressive and bully other fish.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: Mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Scavenger. Will accept high quality pellet or flake as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as mysis, bloodworms, brine, shrimp, etc. Compatibility: Will work in a variety of different types of communities. Enjoy the company of their own species. Perfect choice for African Cichlid Communities. Avoid timid tank mates. Extra: The Featherfin Squeaker is part of the synodontis family and are often mistaken for the upsidedown catfish as juveniles. After they reach about 4″ they are easily distinguished with their tall dorsal. They are extremely hardy and can adapt to many parameters making them a good choice for beginners. While they aren’t necessarily aggressive, they can be quite boisterous, sometimes territorial, and are aggressive eaters making them a poor choice to house with timid eaters. Back to the top
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 74F-84F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-Aggressive. Relatively peaceful compared to other cichlid. Males can be territorial. Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms, and daphnia Compatibility: With other similar temperament fish, avoid small fish that it can eat. Extra: The Blue Acara is a great choice for those wanting to start a cichlid tank. It’s hardy, versatile, and stays a manageable size. Like all cichlid, individual personalities will vary between cichlid. The Blue Acara tends to be one of the more peaceful species. Lots of hiding spots are ideal; though if you decide to use live plants, be sure to choose plants with a sturdy root system or that are floating as the acara tends to dig and unroot delicate plants.
Photo Credit: Andres AdrianzaPhoto Credit: Sophie WasherPhoto Credit: Anuurad
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 5.8-7.0 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Upper-mid dwelling Behavior: Semi Aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community tank, avoid small fish they possibly can eat. Avoid fin nipping species for obvious reasons. Gourami, bottom dwellers, less aggressive barbs, dwarf cichlid are good choices. Extra: The angelfish, now considered a cichlid is a great addition to most community tanks. While the angelfish is given a 2/5 on difficulty, they usually still make a wonderful choice for beginners. They are relatively hardy once they have become stable, though they do need very clean water. They can be somewhat adaptable and do best in a more peaceful community with tank mates that will allow this fish to be king of the tank and will not harass and nip at the angel’s long flowing fins. Individuals may vary, but for the most part the angel is a fairly peaceful fish unless it has formed a breeding pair.
Photo Credit: Ronald Marcos“Orange Flash” Photo credit: Anuurad
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 72F-85F, PH 5.0-7.0, soft Maximum size: 3.5″ Tank region: Bottom Mid dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore mostly. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Can be kept in peaceful community, though can be aggressive with it’s own species. Recommended to keep a dither fish with them. Extra: The Apistogramma is an interesting addition to any collector of dwarf cichlid. There are multiple species of Apistogramma all varying slightly with size and temperament, but this is a general guide for their care. A single pair can be kept in a 10 gallon tank, though it is extremely important to keep their water quality up as this fish can be sensitive to nitrates and poor conditions. They do best in a natural environment with slow moving water, lots of caves and hiding, and lower lighting.
Photo Credit:Ronald MarcosPhoto Credit: Adesh KobalPhoto Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 82F-86F, PH 5.5-7.0, GH Soft Maximum size: 6.5″ Tank region: Upper and mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivorous. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. are particularly important to bring out the bold coloration of this fish. There are foods specifically designed for discus such as Hikari Discus Bio-Gold. Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be con-specific aggressive. Extra: This striking fish has colors that can rival saltwater fish. They can come in a variety of different colors, all being equally stunning. These fish need to have exceptionally clean water with some keepers doing daily large water changes to keep this fish happy. Many people keep discus in planted tanks, but it’s important to keep balance when doing this. Plants love nitrates, and discus tend to have a very low tolerance for them, so it can be a bit tricky when keeping both. While discus are relatively peaceful, they can sometimes be aggressive amongst themselves. To resolve this issue, it can be recommended to keep discus in a group of 5 or more to allow them to create a pecking order.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggressive, can be territorial especially when breeding Diet: High quality flake or pellet with variety of live or frozen foods such as brine, worms, Compatibility: Will work in a tank with other similar sized cichlids, can work in larger community tank with fish such as larger molly and gourami. Extra: The Firemouth is a medium sized cichlid that is a great option for beginners looking to try out cichlids. They are extremely hardy, adaptable to water parameters (as long as they aren’t extreme,) and are somewhat diverse for tank mates. While individual personalities can vary greatly among Firemouth; they have been known to be mild enough to house in community tanks, as well as be tough enough to hold their own with larger cichlid. The Firemouth’s downfall is usually it’s stubbornness and bravery. This attribute can get the Firemouth into trouble as it may pick a fight it can’t finish. For the most part though, their aggression is directed only to same or similar looking species. 50 gallons is a tank minimum for full grown Firemouth; but since they are slow growing, they may work in a 30 gallon long until they reach around 3″. Keep in mind this may heighten aggression, however.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Peaceful, semi-aggressive, can be territorial Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other medium sized american cichlids, or in a community with fish that have similar requirements. Extra: This beautiful little cichlid is relatively undemanding and a great option for those looking to keep American cichlids. It is much more peaceful than it’s relative, the convict cichlid. Sometimes mistaken for the convict cichlid, it can be distinguished by it’s striking blue and green hues and smaller size. Expect to have a surplus of fry if you keep a male and a female as they are prolific breeders. Female can be identified by their orange bellies and the males will have a red caudal fin.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid-bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Peaceful community. Can be housed with most other calm fish, avoid small fish with full grown keyhole as they can be eaten. Extra: The keyhole is a great choice for beginners since it is a forgiving and adaptable fish. This hardy fish can adapt to many water parameters, though extremes should be avoided and nitrates should be kept to a minimum. While most keyhole are fairly mild mannered, an individual’s temperament can vary.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish Extra: The parrot cichlid, also known as the blood parrot, is actually a man-made hybrid created by multiple different cichlid species. It is speculated this hybrid may include severum, red devil, midas, synspilum, and/or convict cichlid but it has not been confirmed. The Blood Parrot is known for being interactive with their owners and are endeared with their likeness to goldfish. They are highly sought after, particularly in the asian culture and are quite popular.
There is controversy surrounding the blood parrot. This fish was created to intentionally look deformed and because of this, they can have many health issues. Many blood parrots cannot open or close their mouths which makes it especially important not to keep them with more aggressive fish as they cannot defend themselves. They can have spinal issues, swim bladder issues, and other health issues due this hybridization. Many parrots are also sterile, though they have been known to cross breed with other species.
While I tend to have a neutral stance on the subject, many keepers have boycotted the blood parrot due to believing it is unethical. I will not attempt to sway your view on this, but instead encourage you to do your own research and come to your own opinions on this subject.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Avoid overly aggressive fish. Can be housed with smaller peaceful fish. Extra: The rainbow cichlid is a great choice for beginners looking to start with cichlids that aren’t overly aggressive. They are fairly hardy and adaptable, though it is important to keep up with their water quality. While they are best suited in a 50 gallon or more; a pair could be kept in a 30 gallon. A heavily decorated tank, sandy or muddy substrate, with a moderate light and water flow is an ideal environment for this fish.
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Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: Also known as the Angel Ram, the Balloon Ram, is a man made fish created from the German Blue Ram. Very similar in appearance, the Angel Ram can be distinguished by it’s shorter body and rounded belly. They can be kept in a community setting with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlid, and can be kept solo or in a pair. Like the Blue Ram, the Angel Ram is sensitive to water parameters. In fact, due to the Angel Ram being a malformation it can be more difficult with it’s care since it’s prone to more issues. They require softer water which can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well. Back to the top
Bolivian Ram
(Mikrogeophagus altispinosus)
Photo Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 72-79F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 3.5″ Tank region: Bottom to mid-dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, Conspecific Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Works well in peaceful community tanks, but can hold themselves with larger fish that aren’t too overly aggressive. Can be mildly aggressive with same species Extra: This little ram is a great alternative to the german ram. While they may not be as visually striking, they are much hardier than their relative. They are fairly undemanding and accepting of many species of fish. If you decide to keep more than one bolivian, it’s important to give them enough territory to avoid aggression. If you can accommodate their territory needs, it can be quite rewarding seeing them interact with one another. A heavily decorated tank, preferably with live plant, moderate to lower lighting, and some driftwood is ideal and in turn you will have a great little fish that will be eager to greet you.
Photo Credit: Jeramm BatesPhoto Credit: Ronald Marcos
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 76F-84F, PH 6.0-7.5, GH Soft Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Mid to Bottom-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, spirulina, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community. Avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: The German Blue Ram is a dwarf cichlid that is best kept in a community with non-cichlids or other peaceful dwarf cichlids and can be kept solo or in a pair. They can be sensitive to water parameters and softer water is required. This can be accomplished with RO water, plants, and/or driftwood. Avoid rocks and gravel that can raise PH such as those containing limestone. Plenty of hiding with floating plants are the surface to diffuse light is ideal, as well
“Wild Caught Rotkeil Pair” Photo Credit: Blake Graham
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.0-7.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: Top to Mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc as well as fresh veggies like cucumber, lettuce, and peas. Compatibility: Can be housed with larger community fish or cichlid with similar temperaments. Extra: The Severum is generally a mild mannered cichlid who can usually work in a community tank so long as it’s tank mates aren’t small enough to fit in it’s mouth. They are known for being quite destructive with live plants so caution should be used. While classifications are constantly changing, here are a few different types of Severum you should know:
“Gold Severum” Photo Credit: John Michael Ogorek Jr.
The Efasciatus, or Green Severum, is the most commonly seen Severum in the trade. It can come in a few different varieties with green and gold being the most seen. The Heros Appendiculatus, or Turquoise Severum, has now been reclassified under Efasciatus, as well. Also known as the Banded Severum, they display 8-9 bars laterally which will usually disappear with age. This species gets larger and has more girth than the Severus, reaching upwards of 8″-12″. A 75 gallon should be an absolute minimum for an adult and 100 gallons being a more realistic size, especially when keeping more than one.
The Rotkeil is one of the more colorful Severum species and tends to be more expensive. They are not officially classified as of yet, so they are often labeled as Heros sp. Rotkeil. There is debate on the best way to properly identify young Rotkeil and many will argue that the Rotkeil is one of the few species that will have 8 bars. While this advice will be helpful and does seem to ring true, it is still unreliable unfortunately since it’s not always a guarantee. The best way to ensure you are getting the correct fish is to only purchase juveniles from a reputable source.
The Heros Severus, the true mouthbrooder, is often mistaken with the Efasciatus. The Severus, however, is rarely available in the trade. It is more slender and are usually seen no larger than 8″. Therefore, they can be housed in nothing less than a 55 gallon or larger. The Heros Notatus, or Black Spotted Severum, is another uncommon Severum hardly seen in the trade, though they are gaining popularity in recent years.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 for a single fish, 60 gallon for a pair Water parameters: 76F-80F, PH 7.2-7.8 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: Mid to bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. A single Sajica can be housed in a community. Can be aggressive with same species. Can hold it’s own with larger, more aggressive fish. Extra: Also known as the T-bar cichlid, the Sajica is a relatively peaceful medium size cichlid. It is ideal to keep them with other fish of similar size and temperament, but it is fairly adaptable and can live in a community or with larger cichlid. It is not recommended to keep more than one sajica in a community though, as they can become aggressive. They are hardy and can acclimate to most conditions as long as they aren’t extreme.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 9″ Tank region: Middle, bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based, High quality sinking pellet, as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, earthworms, blackworms, and other meat and/or veggie based foods. No floating foods as this species will not go to the surface to eat. Compatibility: Other species of similar size and peaceful temperament. Other peaceful cichlids. Will not tolerate it’s own species unless they are paired. Extra: Blue Sifter, False Firemouth, Robertson’s Cichlid, Turquoise Cichlid; this slow grower goes by many names. Often mistaken for the Firemouth at a young age, this fish is not a common one to see in the trade. They are an attractive fish that can be kept with other peaceful cichlid. They are fairly hardy, however, they can be somewhat timid especially with feeding. They will eat much like a geophagus sifting through the sand, which means they will not go to the surface for food. They are also known to be picky and only eating chopped up earthworms, bloodworms, etc. but with some patience and persistence, have been known to take pellet so long as it sinks. They are a fairly mild mannered fish, though have been known to not tolerate their own species unless they are in a very large aquarium.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 70 gallons Water parameters: 75F-84F, PH 5.5-7.0 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: Mid-Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Include leafy greens if housed with live plants to minimize destruction. Compatibility: Other similar sized fish. Severum, Geos, and other similar sized cichlid are a good choice. Extra: Also known as the panda uaru, this larger cichlid is a more mild mannered fish compared to other cichilds, but it can still hold it’s own against more aggressive species. While they appreciate a heavily planted tank, they can also be quite destructive so choose your plants wisely and add leafy greens to their diet. Uaru are relatively hardy, but it is still important to keep their water quality up as well, as keep good filtration as they produce a lot of waste. </a Back to the top
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallons Water parameters: 72F-79F, PH 7.8-9.0, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: Middle to bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other rockdwellers or shelldwellers, canbe housed with other species of similar size and temperament. Extra: The Brichardi is part of the rockdwelling portion of the Neolamprologus family. It is fairly hardy as long as it’s water is kept fairly stable. This species does not do well with larger water changes unless the parameters are fairly similar to their current conditions. It is still up for debate whether or not the Brichardi and the Daffodil are the same species, but for now they are being described as separate species. A 20 gallon is an absolute minimum when keeping a species specific tank, though they need larger if you plan to keep more than one male or a mixed tank. While they can get up to 6″ they are usually seen closer to 4″-5″.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallons Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ for female Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates. Extra: The Brevis is found in Lake Tanganyika and is part of the group called Shelldwellers. The shelldwellers are typically smaller, more peaceful African cichlids. Unlike other shelldwellers, they come from a low density shell location so the males and females can be seen sharing a shell. The Brevis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Multis Shelldweller
(Neolamprologus multifasciatus)
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 1.5″-2″ Males, .75″-1″ Females Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates or any tank mates that can eat them. Extra: This spunky little shelldweller is thought to the smallest cichlid in the world, though it comes with a big personality. They are a fearless fish that will defend their territory ruthlessly making them a perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the fascinating behavior of cichlid on a smaller scale. Multis can be kept in a tank as small as 5 gallons for a single fish (though not recommended) or 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and sand is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallons Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH Hard Maximum size: 2.5″ males, 1.5″ females Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Diet should include high quality small cichlid pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine, mysis, daphnia. Make sure to include veggies such as spirulina, spinach, and/or deshelled peas. Be sure to never overfeed. Compatibility: Other shelldwellers, smaller rock dwellers, and smaller species with similar size and temperament, avoid overly aggressive tank mates. Extra: The Ocellated Shelldweller is one of the more popular and common species of shelldwellers. Though small, they are fierce and will fearlessly defend their territory from intruders such as their keeper’s hand while cleaning their aquarium. They are fairly hardy and more tolerant of water conditions than other shelldwellers making them an excellent choice for keepers looking to have a fascinating fish but may want a smaller aquarium. 10 gallons for a pair or a single male and a harem of 3 females. While this is the absolute minimum, they should ideally be kept in a larger aquarium, especially if you plan to house with other tank mates or more than one male. Shells should be provided and a 2″ sandbed is recommended. They require highly oxygenated water and heavy filtration and regular water changes is recommended as this species can be sensitive to nitrates and ammonia which are even more toxic in higher PH. Unlike many other African cichlids, it is not recommended to overstock this fish. </a Back to the top
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Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon Water parameters: 75F-81F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females Tank region: Bottom to mid dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, can be aggressive when breeding Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, etc. Variety is important. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Barbs and larger tetras are good choice. Avoid slow moving fish such as angels, gouramis, and guppies. Extra: Although the Kribensis is an African species of cichlid, they are found in the rivers and not the lakes. For this reason, their requirements are closer to that of the American cichlids. They are a hardy species and will accept a wide variety of water parameters as long as they aren’t too extreme, and they are fairly undemanding. They are a colorful dwarf cichlid, making them an attractive choice for beginners. Though individual personalities may vary, they are relatively peaceful unless they are breeding. Unless you are prepared to deal with their aggressive nature, I would recommend keeping Kribensis solo or with only the same gender to avoid forming a pair. Make sure to have lots of hiding and a cave is a must since these are a favorite among Kribensis.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-8.8 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, conspecific aggression Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Most Communities, though recommended to keep with larger more similar sized species. Con-specific aggressive, particularly with males. Extra: This medium sized gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, shy Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them. Extra: The dwarf gourami comes in a wide variety of colors such as neon, powder blue, and rainbow. They can add great color to any community tank and are relatively hardy making them a great option for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Dwarf gourami are prone to a disease called Iridovirus though, which about 22% of dwarf gourami have. It is still unclear why it occurs, but some gourami may be infected for years before succumbing to it. While it may be contagious to certain dwarf gourami, other fish are not at risk of this virus. Pearl gourami, thick lipped, banded, and other larger gourami are not affected by this disease.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 2″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid larger relatives and other fish that may bully them. Extra: This dwarf gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 200gallons+ for adults Water parameters: 70F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 28″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Generally mild mannered, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore. Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, worms, tubifex, mysis, etc and fresh fruits and veggies Compatibility: Larger community Extra: The giant gourami is the largest of the gourami species. There are a few different species all varying slightly in size, but all get massive. For this reason, the giant gourami is not a suitable choice for most fish keepers. The giant gourami are very personable and will recognize it’s owner with greeting and begging. These fish are omnivores and will eat both fruits and veggies, and live food such as frogs, worms, and smaller fish. Giant gourami are fairly mild mannered, though it seems that juveniles can be a bit feisty with some types of fish and will generally calm down as they mature. Like other gourami, they can get aggressive with one another, particularly the males. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Because of this labyrinth, they can deal with poor water quality fairly well but it’s extremely important to keep up with regular water changes as the giant gourami is highly susceptible to HITH (Hole in the Head disease.)
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Community. Like to be housed together, though adequate space should be given for two males. Avoid aggressive fish like cichlids. Extra: This gourami is hardy and adaptable fish, making it a great choice for beginners. They have very engaging personalities and will use their “feelers” to touch objects around them. I have had a soft spot for gouramis since I started writing on the tanks work and always had all the gouramis crowding around with curiosity as I wrote. I have kept all sizes and have found that they consistently have comical little personalities. Gouramis can be kept with one another, but they should be given enough space if you decide to house more than one together. Gouramis have an organ called a Labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. Gouramis are relatively peaceful, though have been known to chase other fish around, especially around feeding time.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons, 50 gallons for larger species Water parameters: Maximum size: 6″ though they can get up to 12″ Tank region: Top to mid-dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc Compatibility: Other larger community fish. Should be monitored closely for bullying Extra: The kissing gourami was named this because this species is known to kiss lips as a display for dominance. The PKG lacks the “feelers” like the other gouramis, but does possess the labyrinth, meaning they breathe directly from the air, and will need to have access to the surface. The PKG can get aggressive at times and should be watched to ensure that it isn’t becoming a bully. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: Sophie WasherPhoto Credit: Dispatch273 (IG) ***Photo Credit: Sophie Washer
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 72F-86F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Most all peaceful or not overly aggressive species. Best kept in a group of 4 or more Extra: The Clown Loach is a popular fish in the trade. With it’s fun personality, bold orange and black colors, and ability to take care of any snail problems; it’s obvious why. The Clown Loach isn’t necessarily a wise choice for beginners, however. While it has fairly low demands, it is particularly prone to diseases such as ich. While many may be deterred by this, think of the Clown Loach as your “indicator.” The Clown Loach will usually always be the first to tell you when something in your tank isn’t right. Whether it’s a temperature swing, water conditions are starting to suffer, or some other underlying issue that would otherwise be unnoticed. Unfortunately, since the Clown Loach is a scaleless fish, it can be intolerant of medications making it difficult to treat any disease that this fish is already prone to. It can also be quite common for Clown Loach to show ich whenever added to a new aquarium. So before you decide to treat your new additions, consider trying a less abrasive method first. A few good days of a generous amount of bloodworms/blackworms being careful not to allow water quality to diminish is usually all it takes to allow the Clown Loach to get back into tip top shape. While a full grown Clown will require a 100 gallon minimum, this fish is extremely slow growing and will realistically take a few years to reach such a size. For this reason, a clown loach under 4″ can work in a 40 gallon for some time and a 55 gallon long until they reach about 6″. This is a shoaling fish that I highly recommend keeping with at least 5 or more (though they’d love to be 10 or more,) and 3 being the absolute minimum.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 75F-83F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 8.5″ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Other fish of similar size and temperament. Use caution when housing with other bottom dwelling fish that can compete for territory. Best kept in groups of 5 or more Extra: Also known as the Tiger Botia, the Banded Loach/Botia is part of the group of loaches that are known for being quite boisterous. As juveniles they can be somewhat peaceful; but as they get larger, they can become terrors if thought hasn’t gone into their care. They should be kept in a group of 5 or more to reduce aggression issues as well as plenty of hiding areas and territories to avoid competition. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept a variety of foods such as high quality sinking pellet or flake, bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc. Compatibility: Community, best kept in a group of 3 or more Extra: Looking at the YoYo Loach and you will quickly discover how they got their name. Along their bodies you will see the trademark “Y” “o” markings spelling out “yo.” This smaller species can reach upwards of 5″ though they are usually seen around 2.5″ in captivity. While they can be hardy if their needs are met, they may not be a great choice for beginners as they require pristine water conditions and can be prone to disease if these needs are not met. They should be kept in a group of 3 or more, though a group of 6 or more is more ideal. They are relatively peaceful and make a great choice for community tanks, though they can be seen squabbling amongst themselves in a fight for dominance. This is normal and typical behavior for these fish. They make quick work of snails; and like other loach, they are sensitive to certain medications. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: Ronald MarcosPhoto Credit: Sean Foley
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: Top dwelling Behavior: Generally peaceful, but will eat other fish especially top dwelling fish. Diet: Can be trained to eat a variety of frozen, freezedried, or flake/pellet. Love insects and crickets. Compatibility: Peaceful similar sized or larger sized fish. Avoid small fish it can eat. Avoid fin nipping fish that can harass the butterfly. Extra: These oddballs are called butterflyfish because they slightly resemble a butterfly with their fins spread out and they also have the ability to jump out of the water and glide at the water’s surface. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a secure lid at all times. They like heavily decorated tanks, especially with floating plants they can hide in and moderate water flow. They can be quite finicky when it comes to food as well as sensitive to poor water quality giving them a 3/5 in difficulty.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 20″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Mild mannered, mostly conspecific aggressive Diet: Carnivore based with live or frozen food such as bloodworms, blackworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, etc. May possibly accept pellets. Compatibility: Other tankmates of similar size and temperament. Avoid small fish and invertebrates that can fit in this fish’s mouth. Avoid same species and relatives of the ghost knife. Extra: The Black Ghost Knifefish is one of the more commonly available species part of this family. A little hardier than some of it’s relatives, it is still considered fairly difficult to care for. While part of the Apteronotus family, and have an electrical pulse similar to the mormyridae family. With this organ, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each species will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Knifefish require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft substrate. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other scaleless fish, they require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt, though the Black Ghost Knifefish has been known to be a little more tolerant than other species.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, predatory Diet: Carnivore, can be trained to take pellet. Will eat frozen foods such as prawns, bloodworms, mussles, etc. Compatibility: Similar sized or larger species of fish. Avoid small fish or overly aggressive fish Extra: The leopard ctenopoma is an usual fish that most oddball collectors would love to keep. They are unbelievably hardy and have even impressed me with their durability. While they are generally peaceful with most tank mates , they can predate small fish. Surprisingly, their mouths can open much wider than some may realize which can be around the size of a quarter when extended. A unique behavior the ctenopoma exhibits is mimicking a leaf. This is done by the ctenopoma pointing it’s nose downward and curling it’s tail to the side to resemble a leaf, then it will float near an unsuspecting fish or bug and ambush. They also seem to do it as a defense mechanism. When my ctenopoma does it, I call it his “awkward leaf” dance as he’ll almost moonwalk out of the tricky situation.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0, Brackish 1.005-1.008 sg Maximum size: 2′ Tank region: Bottom Behavior: Peaceful, con-specific Semi-aggressive Diet: Frozen or live blackworms, bloodworms, daphnia, plankton, etc. Can be trained onto a quality pellet. Compatibility: Community, avoid overly aggressive tank mates Extra: This prehistoric looking fish isn’t quite as fierce as it’s appearance may lead to believe. The dragon goby is actually fairly mild mannered in nature, though they can be pushy if not given it’s own space. While it has a large mouth, it isn’t known for predating small fish and instead uses it’s large mouth to gulp in water to catch small food particles. While they are usually sold in the freshwater section, these are best kept brackish. They are perfectly fine starting off in freshwater, but in order for them to thrive and live a full life; it is recommended that they eventually have a low salinity. For this reason, it’s recommended to keep this fish with other species that are tolerant to mild brackish conditions. They can grow up to 2′ in the wild, but are usually seen closer to 15″ in captivity. In freshwater they grow much slower, as well. They should be kept on a sand substrate or avoid gravel with sharp edges that can injure the dragon goby’s soft belly. Weekly water changes are a must as this fish is incredibly sensitive to ammonia and will be seen gulping at the surface with even the smallest traces of ammonia present.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon for single puffer, additional 5 gallons each additional Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 1″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, territorial Diet: Snails, frozen and live foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, krill, brine, etc. Rarely will accept pellet or flake. Compatibility: Best kept solo, but can work in community if given enough space. Avoid slow moving fish, long flowing fins, or overly aggressive fish. Extra: The Dwarf Puffer, or Pea Puffer, is a true freshwater puffer and an irresistible little fish that many will be tempted to add to their aquariums. Before you impulsively purchase one of these charming creatures be aware of the challenges that lay ahead. While they only get up to a whopping 1″, they require more space than people realize, especially if keeping with tank mates. Even with plenty of space, they are still known for nipping at almost all of their neighbors once given the chance. Since tank mates can be a bit tricky, it may be best to keep this as a solo mini wet pet. If you do decide to take on the Pea Puffer, you will be rewarded with a comical and interactive fish that will entertain for hours. Unlike most puffers, they do not require snails to file down their teeth. Back to the top
Elephant nose
(Gnathonemus petersii)
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Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 40 gallon for single adult Water parameters: 73F-80F, PH 6.5-7.0 Maximum size: 9″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Peaceful, conspecific Semi-aggressive Diet: Carnivore based diet of live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, tubifex, mysis, brine, blackworms, etc. Compatibility: Community Avoid overly active tankmates that can outcompete for food. Avoid other mormyrids. Can be kept with peaceful cichlid, angel, smaller peaceful catfish, larger tetra. Extra: The Elephant Nose is a unique fish that is fairly uncommon among fish keepers. Part of the mormyridae family, they can be distinguished by their long “trunks” used to scavenge for food. Like other mormyrid, they emit an electrical pulse to help them navigate. They are nocturnal and have poor eyesight which makes this organ especially helpful. Each morymrid will emit a different frequency and even males’ and females’ will vary. Morymrids require moderate to low lighting, plenty of hiding, and a soft sandy substrate. It is extremely important that these fish are kept on a soft sandy substrate because gravel and other hard substrates can damage and even break their “trunks”. While this fish can be quite timid, with patience they can become comfortable and even interact with their keeper’s hands. Like other mormyrids, these require pristine water conditions and have little to no tolerance for medications and salt.
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Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 10 gallon, 5 gallon for single pair Water parameters: 65F-78F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 2.5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake as well as live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, bloodworms, spirulina, etc. Algae should be included in their diet and needs to be supplemented if there is no algae present in aquarium. Compatibility: Community, can become nippy with with some species of fish. Males can sometimes become aggressive with one another. Extra: Named for their bright and colorful markings, the American Flag Fish is an extremely hardy and adaptable fish making it a wonderful choice for beginners. They make a great addition in community tanks, planted tanks, and ponds due to their diverse nature and tolerance. Often overlooked, they are a great choice for algae control that can surprise even the siamese algae eater and pleco! With their small size and hardy nature, they make a wonderful alternative to these choices. </a Back to the top
Photo Credit: bcprettyfish_ (IG)Photo Credit: Ronald Marcus
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon Water parameters: 61F-79F, PH 5.8-8.0 Maximum size: 4″ males, 3″ females Tank region: All over, mostly top to mid dwelling Behavior: Semi-aggressive, males conspecific aggressive Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Females can work in community. Males should be with larger, peaceful community. Avoid housing males together, this includes relatives such as the gourami Extra: The Paradise Fish is one of the first fish ever kept in the hobby alongside the goldfish. The Paradise is part of the group of fish with the Labyrinth organ which allows them to gulp at the waters surface in oxygen depleted waters. They are extremely hardy and adaptable making them a great choice for beginners. Their beautiful colors and intelligence makes them an interesting addition for any keeper, as well. While females are fairly tolerant of tank mates, care should be given when housing a male. They can be fairly aggressive towards other males of the same species, relatives, and other fish they just may not take a liking to. Due to the thought needed when choosing tank mates; the Paradise fish is rated 2/5 to an otherwise perfectly easy fish.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: Mid dwelling Behavior: Semi aggressive, shoaling Diet: Will accept a variety of food including a high quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, tubifex, mysis, etc. Compatibility: Community, avoid species small enough for them to eat. Great choice as target/dither fish in American Cichlid tanks Extra: The Bala Shark is a popular fish in the hobby, especially with children due to their similar appearance to shark. Even though, they are called the Bala Shark, they aren’t a shark at all! While they make a great choice for beginners due to their hardy nature, they aren’t suitable for those beginners starting their first smaller tank. These cute little guys will grow up to a foot and a half and they will do so quickly! They are a shoaling and active species and should be in a group of 3 or more (ideally more) and therefore a 75 gallon is the absolute minimum with a 125-180 gallon being much more practical.
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Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, con-specific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc. Compatibility: Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish. Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Rainbow Shark is not actually a shark at all! This attractive fish makes a great addition to many semi-aggressive aquariums, though thought should still be given to tank mates. Often mistaken for it’s relative, the Red Tail Shark, it tends to be somewhat more mild mannered. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. While the Rainbow does best as the only shark in the tank, it can be kept with other Rainbows as long as there is at least 55 gallons and a minimum of 6 together. If there aren’t more than 6 of these the aggression will not be evenly displaced and one fish may become over-bullied. Back to the top
Red tail shark
(Epalzeorhynchos bicolor)
Photo Credit: BCPRETTYFISH_
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallons Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Semi-aggressive, cons-pecific aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live and frozen foods such as brine, bloodworms, mysis, spirulina, algae wafers, etc. Compatibility:Semi-aggressive community. Avoid same species or similar looking species. Does best with larger, active schooling fish. can pick on bottom dwelling species such as catfish. Extra: While they may resemble a shark, the Red Tail Shark is not a shark at all! Often mistaken with the Rainbow Shark, the Red Tail is known for being more aggressive. There are a few ways to distinguish the two, but the easiest would be their fin colors. The Rainbow will have all red fins, and the Red Tail will only have it’s tail red with the rest black. The Red Tail is also usually smaller than the Rainbow measuring usually around 4″, though they can reach up to 6″. It is recommended to not house this species with any other sharks or similar looking species as they can become quite aggressive.
Photo Credit: Marcus Heng Photo Credit: Doremonster (IG)
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 240 gallon Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 36″ Tank region: Top dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Diet can be include floating carnivore pellet, frozen or live foods such as shrimp, mussels, white fish, worms, frogs, insects. Juveniles essentially would appreciate crickets in their diet. Compatibility: Best kept solo, but occasionally be kept with large robust fish, possibly large catfish Extra: This desirable fish is illegal to keep in the United States. However, along with it’s undeniable beauty comes a very hefty pricetag where they are legal to own. While many may be tempted to keep this dragon fish in their aquariums, I would not recommend keeping one unless you plan to accommodate this tankbuster’s needs long term. The arowana is supposed to ward off evil spirits and they have been known to “sacrifice” themselves for their owners by jumping out of the water. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a very secure lid. This tale probably stems from the fact that arowana leap out of the water either for food or because they can be quite jumpy. For this jumpiness, it is also recommended to keep the water level slightly lower since the arowana is known for spooking and slamming the lid.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 180 gallon long Water parameters: Maximum size: 24″ Tank region: Top dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Diet can be include floating carnivore pellet, frozen or live foods such as shrimp, mussels, white fish, worms, insects. Juveniles essentially would appreciate crickets in their diet. Compatibility: Best kept solo, but occasionally be kept with large robust fish, possibly large catfish Extra: This Australian arowana is is a much smaller and more manageable size than it’s relative the silver arowana. However, as it gets large it can become quite aggressive in nature. While you may be able to start with tankmates, usually the jardini will end up needing to be a solo fish.
While many may be tempted to keep this dragon fish in their aquariums, I would not recommend keeping one unless you plan to accommodate this tankbuster’s needs long term. The arowana is supposed to ward off evil spirits and they have been known to “sacrifice” themselves for their owners by jumping out of the water. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a very secure lid. This tale probably stems from the fact that arowana leap out of the water either for food or because they can be quite jumpy. For this jumpiness, it is also recommended to keep the water level slightly lower since the arowana is known for spooking and slamming the lid.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 300 gallon long Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 4′ Tank region: Top dwelling Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore based. Diet can be include floating carnivore pellet, frozen or live foods such as shrimp, mussels, white fish, worms, insects. Juveniles essentially would appreciate crickets in their diet. Compatibility: Other large fish that can’t be eaten. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates. Extra: The silver arowana is the most common of the arowana seen in the trade. It is also one of the largest. While many may be tempted to keep this dragon fish in their aquariums, I would not recommend keeping one unless you plan to accommodate this tankbuster’s needs long term. The arowana is supposed to ward off evil spirits and they have been known to “sacrifice” themselves for their owners by jumping out of the water. For this reason, it is extremely important to have a very secure lid. This tale probably stems from the fact that arowana leap out of the water either for food or because they can be quite jumpy. For this jumpiness, it is also recommended to keep the water level slightly lower since the arowana is known for spooking and slamming the lid.
Photo Credit: Stuart Burns
While most arowana have the possibility of drop eye, the silver arowana for whatever reason tends to be the most susceptible to this. Drop eye is the condition where fatty tissue starts to form above the eye giving it the appearance that the eye is looking downwards. It can occur in any eye, and the severity is ranging. The real cause of this remains unknown, but many speculate that it can be caused by a fatty diet, injury, the arowana looking unnaturally downwards too often, or genetics. I suspect this has more to do with genetics than anything since the silver arowana tends to be the most susceptible even though all the species are exposed to the same risks. A proper diet, proper accommodations, and possibly a ping pong ball to direct the arowana’s attention upwards are always recommended regardless. Back to the top
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 300 gallon+ Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 5.5-7.5 Maximum size: 48″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore based diet. Will accept most foods which should include a carnivore based pellet and meaty foods such as fish, worms, crustaceans, etc. Compatibility: Other large fish at a minimum of 1 foot in length Extra: Though widely available, it is actually quite unsuitable for the majority of most hobbyists. This active 4 foot beast can get up to 95 pounds; that’s the size of a big Alaskan Malamute! While they may work in a 300 gallon tank, they are really best suited for ponds over 1,000 gallons. So before you are tempted to add the cute baby redtail to your aquarium, be prepared for this baby to QUICKLY outgrow most tanks and many fish stores will not take this species back. Like most catfish, this species can be sensitive to certain medications. Back to the top
Ripsaw Catfish Oxydoras niger
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 200 gallon+ Water parameters: 70F-81F, PH 6.0-7.8 Maximum size: 35″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory, though relatively peaceful as long as it has enough space to have as territory Diet: Carnivore based diet. Will accept most foods which should include a carnivore based pellet and meaty foods such as fish, worms, crustaceans, etc. Compatibility: Tankmates over 6″ in length, avoid overly boisterous fish that may harass this fish. Extra: Also known as the Niger Catfish, the Ripsaw Catfish is one of the larger species of catfish in the hobby. While not as large as the RTC, this tankbuster requires a very large aquarium and may not be suitable for most hobbyists. They can be housed in a 200 gallon minimum, though larger is much more ideal. Like most catfish, this species can be sensitive to certain medications. Back to the top
Shovelnose Catfish Phseudoplatystoma sp.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 200 gallon Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 24″+ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore based diet of fish, crustacean, worms, mussel, etc. Can be trained to take carnivore pellets Compatibility: Larger species that aren’t overly aggressive. Avoid skittish tankmates that can spook this fish Extra: This striking catfish is another large species of catfish. While it usually reaches around 24″ it can easily grow much larger. They grow extremely fast easily reaching 1.5 feet within the first year. In the wild this fish can reach upwards of 40″. The shovelnose can be sensitive to nitrates, therefore it’s very important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. Like most catfish, this species can be sensitive to certain medications. Back to the top
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-84F, PH 7.8-8.6, GH Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tankmates. Extra: The sunshine peacock is a wonderful addition to adding color to an African cichlid tank. The sunshine can reach up to 6″ but are closer to 4″-6″. Peacocks are one of the more mild mannered species to choose from, but use caution when housing two males together. It is recommended to have at least 100 gallons when housing two males of the same species.
Photo Credit: Midwestropical Fish
Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-84F, PH 7.8-8.6, GH Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tankmates. Extra: The Eureka is just one of the different peacocks described under Jacobfreibergi. The Eureka is a natural strain of peacock found in the wild and are usually found around 6″ but can be found as large as 8″. Peacocks are one of the more mild mannered species to choose from, but use caution when housing two males together. It is recommended to have at least 100 gallons when housing two males of the same species.
“Otter Point” Photo Credit: Jona Crespo
Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to overfiltrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-84F, PH 7.8-8.6, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tankmates. Extra: The Sulfur Head is a striking species of fish that can be distinguished by the yellow blaze on the top of it’s head and down it’s dorsal on the males. They are usually around 4″-5″ but can get up to 6″. Peacocks are one of the more mild mannered species to choose from, but use caution when housing two males together. It is recommended to have at least 100 gallons when housing two males of the same species.
Photo Credit: Dispatch273 (IG) ***
Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to overfiltrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-84F, PH 7.8-8.6, GH Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tankmates. Extra: The Blue Regal and Ngara Flametail are just some of the different peacocks described under Stuartgranti. Peacocks are one of the more mild mannered species to choose from, but use caution when housing two males together. It is recommended to have at least 100 gallons when housing two males of the same species. Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking. Back to the top
Copadichromis Borleyi
“Kadango”
Photo Credit: Hooked_on_fish (IG)
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.8-8.6, GH Maximum size: 7″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as spirulina, bloodworms, daphnia, brine, plankton, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tank mates. Extra: The Kandango comes in a few different varieties such as the Red Fin, Liuli, and Sambia Reef. Once categorized as Haplochromis, it is now categorized under Copadichromis. Like Haps, it is also considered a more mild mannered rift cichlid.
Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.3-8.8m GH Hard Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific aggressive among males Diet: Carnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live meaty foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, chopped earthworms and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other similar sized rift cichlid with similar requirements. Use caution when housing more than one male. Extra: The Blue Dolphin is a wonderful option for beginners as it is readily available, hardy, and fairly adaptable to conditions. While they are a slow grower, they can grow fairly large so 75 gallons is a minimum with ideally 125 or more. They can be housed with more mild mannered species of African cichlid, but it is not recommended to house more than one male unless you have a large tank as they can become quite aggressive.
Photo Credit: Anuurad
Some hobbyists use the ratio 3:1 with 3 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallons Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.7-8.8, GH 6-10 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, Males highly conspecific aggressive with other males Diet: Omnivore/Piscivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as spirulina, bloodworms, daphnia, brine,silversides, mussel, prawns, and other invertebrates, as well as some veggies. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other similar size or larger species of cichlid. Avoid smaller species that can be eaten or Mbuna. Extra: Nicknamed the “Malawi Eye Biter” they are actually no more likely to bite at the eyes of other fish than other cichlid. Males can get highly aggressive amongst themselves, and they can be predatory to smaller fish; they are otherwise fairly mild mannered. They can reach up to 12″, though they are usually closer to 10″. Adults should be kept in a 100 gallon as an absolute minimum and a few hundred gallons is recommended when keeping more than one male.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.5-8.8, GH Hard 10-20 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as spirulina, bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates, as well as some veggies. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Adaptable for most rift communities. Does best with other peaceful Malawi species. Extra: One of the most readily available African cichlids in the hobby, the Yellow Lab is a popular choice for beginners. It is extremely hardy, very adaptable, and a forgiving species. It is also one of the most peaceful Malawi species. They can get up to 5″ but are usually found closer to 3″-4″. They will accept most foods, but make sure to include veggies into their diet to avoid Malawi Bloat.
Photo Credit: bcprettyfish_ (IG)
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter such as zucchini, spinach, and peas. Can include plankton, crustaceans, zooplankton. Brine, mysis, daphnia, and bloodworms can be fed on occasion. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Extra: The Kenyi a popular choice for hobbyists keeping Mbuna tanks. Like other Mbuna, the Kenyi can be quite aggressive, particularly among males. For this reason it is recommended to have a 100 gallon or more when keeping two males of the same species. The Kenyi starts off as a blue fish with blue barring, but the males will slowly turn yellow as it matures, which throws off unexpected fish keepers. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.7-8.8, GH Hard 6-10 Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Avoid species that look similar in appearance. Males should not be housed together. Extra: The Auratus is a highly aggressive Mbuna species that isn’t suitable for beginners due to it’s aggressive nature. Males are not only aggressive to other males, but have been known to kill females as well. Dominant females have also been known to kill subordinate males. 75 gallons is the absolute minimum when keeping this fish, though it is highly recommended they are kept in 125 gallons or larger. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
Male Auratus, Photo Credit: Lisa Butler
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Extra: The Cobalt Blue Zebra is a popular choice for hobbyists keeping Mbuna tanks. Like other Mbuna, the Cobalt can be quite aggressive, particularly among males. For this reason it is recommended to have a 100 gallon or more when keeping two males of the same species. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
Photo Credit: Courtney-Rae Black
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Extra: The Red Zebra is a popular choice for hobbyists keeping Mbuna tanks. Like other Mbuna, the Ice Blue can be quite aggressive, particularly among males. For this reason it is recommended to have a 100 gallon or more when keeping two males of the same species. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Extra: The Ice Blue, also known as the Red Top or William’s Mbuna, is a popular choice for hobbyists keeping Mbuna tanks. Like other Mbuna, the Ice Blue can be quite aggressive, particularly among males. For this reason it is recommended to have a 100 gallon or more when keeping two males of the same species. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.7-8.8, GH Hard 6-10 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive, Predatory Diet: Omnivore/Piscivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as spirulina, bloodworms, daphnia, brine,silversides, mussel, prawns, and other invertebrates, as well as some veggies. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other large rift cichlids. Does well with other haplochgromis. Can be housed with large lake cichlids like Frontosa, though they are from a different lake. Avoid small species that can be eaten. Extra: The Livingstonii has been nicknamed Kaligono, or “sleeper”, by the locals due to it’s unique style of hunting. The Livingstonii will feign death and lay on it’s side waiting for unsuspecting fish to swim by and allow it to ambush. While the Livingstonii can get up to 12″ it usually stays closer to 10″. Due to this large size, it is recommended to keep this fish in a 125 gallon minimum.
Photo Credit: Robbie Murdoch
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 70 gallon for juveniles, 125 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 7.7-8.8, GH Hard 6-10 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, Predatory Diet: Omnivore/Piscivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as spirulina, bloodworms, daphnia, brine,silversides, mussel, prawns, and other invertebrates, as well as some veggies. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Compatibility: Other large rift cichlids. Does well with other haplochgromis. Can be housed with large lake cichlids like Frontosa, though they are from a different lake. Avoid small species that can be eaten. Extra: The Venustus, like the Livingstonii also feigns death as a hunting tactic. They will feign death and lay on it’s side waiting for unsuspecting fish to swim by and allow it to ambush. There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to overfiltrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 78F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 7″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter with spirulina. Can include plankton, crustaceans, zooplankton. Brine, mysis, daphnia, and bloodworms can be fed on occasion. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other Malawi species of similar size and temperament. The overly aggressive Mbuna may not be suitable tankmates. Extra: The Taiwan Reef is a stunning fish that would make a great addition to any mildly aggressive Malawi tank. They can reach 7″ in size, but are usually found closer to 5″-6″.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to overfiltrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 78F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially aggressive with males Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, brine, and other invertebrates. Avoid tubifex and beef heart. Vegetable matter should still be included. Compatibility: Similar size and temperament Mbuna. Extra: The Bumblebee is a large Mbuna cichlid that eats parasites off of catfish in the wild. It can be quite aggressive and is recommended to be housed with other more aggressive species of fish. Avoid keeping two males together unless your aquarium is much larger. They do require more protein in their diet than some Mbuna, but some sort of vegetable matter should still be included.
Photo Credit: bcprettyfish_ (IG)
Some hobbyists use the ratio 6:1 with 6 females to 1 male, some choose 2:1, while others will simply house all males. In my opinion, there is no exact science to finding the right blend. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 78F-82F, PH 7.8-8.8, GH Hard 10-18 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Other aggressive Mbuna. Avoid species similar in appearance. Extra: What the Demasoni lacks in size, it makes up for in attitude. This little fish can be quite aggressive and should only be housed with other aggressive species. It is also extremely important to avoid too much protein in their diet, as well as not overfeeding because they risk getting “Malawi Bloat” which is usually always fatal.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. This is almost an absolute necessity to do when keeping Mbuna. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to overfiltrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-81F, PH 7.2-8.6, GH moderately hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Insectivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, and daphnia. Compatibility: Suitable in an African community, avoid overly aggressive species. Extra: The Zebra Obliquiden, part of a subspecies of haps, is a wonderful choice for beginners looking to start an african cichlid tank. They are fairly hardy, aren’t too fussy with water parameters and on the more peaceful side as far as african cichlids go. There should be plenty of hiding places with this species or they tend to feel insecure and hide more.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-81F, PH 7.5-8.6, GH moderately hard Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Omnivore/Insectivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Compatibility: African community. Males can be highly aggressive conspecific and other haps Extra: The Blue Victorian is one of the first Lake Victorian cichlids to be discovered and classified. While this species may be small, it makes up for it in attitude. It has been known to be fairly aggressive, particularly males with other males. As long as their water is kept in good condition, they are fairly hardy and are not fussy about food.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-81F, PH 7.5-8.6, GH moderately hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Omnivore/Insectivore based. High quality pellet or flake, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Compatibility: Best with more aggressive African community. Males can be highly aggressive conspecific and other haps Extra: The Thickskin variety is one of the more aggressive species of haps and is not as suitable with peaceful peacocks and haps. It would do best with more aggressive fish with a similar temperament, but use caution when housing with species that look similar.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
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Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallons Water parameters: 74F-81F, PH 7.5-8.6, GH hard Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. . Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: In most african lake communities. Extra: One of the most colorful of haps and other Lake Victorian cichlids, the P. Nyererei is a great choice for those looking to add some color to their tank. They aren’t overly aggressive and can work in a Victorian, Mbuna, or mixed community fairly well. Males can be aggressive towards one another so it is important to have lots of hiding and preferably larger aquarium.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 74F-81F, PH 7.5-8.6, GH hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Omnivore/Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter, frozen foods can be fed as a treat sparingly. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Suitable for a peaceful/mildly aggressive African community. Extra: The Kyoga Flameback, or Kyoga Allred, is often confused with the Xystichromis “flameback” due to their similar names, however, the Kyoga Flameback looks much different. The Kyoga Flameback is one of the more common known species of Victorian and is known for being quite colorful. While they can get up to 6″, the males are usually closer to 5″ and the females 3.5″. They are not known for being overly aggressive, but are best in a larger tank as their aggression increases in smaller aquariums.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 74F-79F, PH 8.6-9.1, GH very hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over, mostly mid-bottom dwelling Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. High quality pellet as well as live or frozen foods such as mysis, krill, brine, earthworms, bloodworms, etc. Avoid tubifex and beefheart. Compatibility: Other peaceful tanganyikan cichlids. Avoid aggressive species such mbuna. Extra: The Calvus can range in color from a pearly white to black. It is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. While this fish will need a 50 gallon minimum as an adult, they are incredibly slow growers and can easily live in a 30-40 gallon aquarium for some time. They do best with other peaceful tanganyikan and can usually live with adult shelldwellers without issues or risk of eating them. Unlike a lot of African cichlid, they require more protein in their diet and they don’t do well with overstocked tanks either. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Photo Credit: Adesh KobalPhoto Credit: Ronald Marcus
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallons for solo adult or juvenile group Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.5, GH very hard Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Carnivore based diet. Should include high quality pellet. Can include a variety of live or frozen meaty foods such as snails, shellfish, krill, mysis, brine, worms, worms, crustaceans, etc. Compatibility: Gregarious, prefer to be in groups. Does best with other larger, mild mannered Tanganyika cichlid. Extra: The Frontosa is a large cichlid that is fairly easy as long as it’s needs are properly met. Unlike a lot of African cichlid, the Frontosa is requires more protein in it’s diet. With striking dark bars and bright blue fins, this fish is a spectacular fish to keep. Although a 75 gallon is a minimum for juvenile, a 125 gallon should be the minimum for an older group and a 200 gallon is ideal. They do like the company of their own kind and do best in either a group of one male and 3 females or a mixed group of 8-12. It is quite common for people to keep species only tanks with Frontosa to accommodate their needs. Unlike other African cichlids, they don’t necessarily do well in overstocked tanks either. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon for a pair, 55 gallon for community Water parameters: 74F-79F, PH 8.6-9.2 GH very hard Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does well in african community tanks. Can be kept alone or in pairs. Avoid other housing other julie species. Extra: This mid-sized Julie species is fairly hardy and makes a great choice for beginner fish keepers. Though fairly shy, it can work in an African community tank as long as there aren’t other Julie present. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon for a pair, 55 gallon for community Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does well in african community tanks. Can be kept alone or in pairs. Avoid other housing other julie species. Extra: This mid-sized Julie species is fairly hardy and makes a great choice for beginner fish keepers. Though fairly shy, it can work in an African community tank as long as there aren’t other Julie present. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon for a pair, 55 gallon for community Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: Mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does well in african community tanks. Can be kept alone or in pairs. Avoid other housing other julie species. Extra: This smaller Julie species is fairly hardy and makes a great choice for beginner fish keepers. Though fairly shy, it can work in an African community tank as long as there aren’t other Julie present. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon for a pair, 55 gallon for community Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Work well in african cichlid tank with similar size and temperament. Generally tolerate others of the same species as long as they are raised together. Extra: The J. Regani is one of the larger of the Julie species and can get up to 12″ in the wild. They rarely get that large in captivity and are usually found closer to 6″. They are also one of the more peaceful and tolerant species as well. The J. Regani is fairly hardy and makes a great choice for beginner fish keepers. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 20 gallon for a pair, 55 gallon for community Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 3″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. High quality pellet or flake and should include vegetable matter, as well live or frozen foods such as brine, mosquito larva, cyclops, worms, shrimp, and daphnia. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Work well in african cichlid tank with similar size and temperament. Generally tolerate others of the same species, but will not tolerate their offspring once they hit 1″ in length. Extra: One of the smaller species of Julie; the Transcriptus, or Masked Julie, is an excellent choice for beginners as it is fairly hardy. They are also fairly peaceful and tolerant of other species as well. Regular weekly water changes are a must and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone. Stay tuned on my article on keeping ideal rift environments.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 77F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter and algae. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does best in a species specific tank and in a group of 10 or more Extra: The T. Brichardi comes in a variety of different colors and is not a good choice for beginners. Tropheus are a fairly aggressive fish and while it is still up for debate on the best way to keep these fish, it is sometimes recommended to keep them as a species specific tank. They are also very prone to Malawi Bloat so it is extremely important to keep them strictly herbivore and their water conditions clean.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone.. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 75F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter and algae. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does best in a species specific tank and in a group of 10 or more Extra: The T. Duboisi is one of those African species that changes look as they become adults. As juveniles they start as a little dark fish with white spots and as they get older, the spots disappeared and a yellow band starts to appear. This species is fairly aggressive and it’s recommended to keep in a species specific tank. They are also very prone to Malawi Bloat so it is extremely important to keep them strictly herbivore and their water conditions clean.
Want to have your photos featured of this species? Photo Credit: Alexander Langer
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone.. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 77F-79F, PH 8.0-9.0, GH very hard Maximum size: 5 3/4″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Herbivore based. High quality pellet or flake rich with vegetable matter and algae. Spirulina should be included to keep their colors vibrant. Avoid too much protein, tubifex, and beef heart. Compatibility: Does best in a species specific tank and in a group of 10 or more Extra: The T. Moorii, or Blunt Head, comes in a variety of different colors and is not a good choice for beginners. The T. Moorii is one of the most aggressive of Tropheus, and while it is still up for debate on the best way to keep these fish, it is sometimes recommended to keep them as a species specific tank. They are also very prone to Malawi Bloat so it is extremely important to keep them strictly herbivore and their water conditions clean.
There is no exact science when stocking your African Cichlid tanks. I prefer the slightly overstocked method with lots of rock, hiding, and decorations to break line of sight. By slightly overstocking your tank it will help reduce aggression. It is extremely important to over-filtrate and do regular weekly water changes on your African tanks as higher PH can make ammonia more toxic. Overstocking makes it even more imperative to have extra filtration as well and like most Tanganyikan cichlids they require a heavily oxygenated aquarium which can be done with an airstone.. Stay tuned for an article on the art of overstocking.
Difficulty: 1/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallon for a pair Water parameters: 70F-83F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over, mostly bottom dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Cichlids with similar temperaments. Can hold its own with larger, more aggressive tankmates. Extra: The convict cichlid is a great choice for beginners looking to start a cichlid tank. They are inexpensive, extremely hardy, and easy to care for. They can be kept with larger species since they can be quite tough. It’s said that the only thing it takes to get this fish to breed is to simply “add water.” As in, they will indefinitely start to breed if there is a male and female, and will start at a young age. While it’s wonderful to see cichlids do what they do best, “parent,” it can be undesirable as most cichlid can become hyper aggressive once they start to spawn. To avoid this only keep same gender convicts together which can be distinguished by the orange belly on the females. Be warned, they can still pair up with some other American species, but you will greatly reduce the risk of pairing separating convicts. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon for solo adult Water parameters: 73F-81F, PH 6.8-7.5 Maximum size: 14″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: Often mistaken for the Red Devil, the Midas can be distinguished by their smaller lips, bulkier size, and larger nachual hump. From above, the Midas will have a “U” face vs. the Red Devil who has a “V” face. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon, 55 gallon for smaller solo adult Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: Often mistaken for the Midas, the Red Devil can be distinguished by their larger lips and longer size. From above, the Midas will have a “U” face vs. the Red Devil who has a “V” face. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, brine, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: Often labeled in fish stores as “Green Terror”, the Rivulatus is actually not the true green terror, though it is much more common. Compared to it’s relative, the Stalsbergi, it is much more evenly tempered and is not quite the “terror” it’s often confused for. While it isn’t nearly as aggressive, it still has been known to have an attitude so it’s important to have a large aquarium if you plan to keep this fish with tank mates. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met; though they have been known to be susceptible to internal parasites and can be difficult to treat. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes, especially since this species is known to get HITH in poor water conditions. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants Back to the top
Andinoacara Stalsbergi
“Green Terror”
Photo Credit: Conway L. Stevens
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 90 gallons Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 6.0-7.8 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, brine, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The true Green Terror is the Stalsbergi, though this species is extremely uncommon in the trade. The Stalsbergi does live up to it’s name and can be quite aggressive compared to the Rivulatus. For this reason, care should be given when choosing tank mates. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met; though they have been known to be susceptible to internal parasites and can be difficult to treat. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes, especially since this species is known to get HITH in poor water conditions. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The Oscar is another popular cichlid in the trade. They are extremely hardy and have a lovable personality making them a wonderful option for beginners. Though many are tempted to purchase cute little juveniles interacting with them, I don’t recommend taking an oscar home unless you plan to house this fish in an adequate size aquarium. Many stores will not take an oscar that has outgrown an aquarium, and the ones that do usually have a difficult time finding a new home. The Oscar has been dubbed a “Wet Pet” due to their personalities and love for their owners. They can be quite emotional fish that are known for sulking or even throwing a tantrum to show their dismay. They are very hardy, but do not take advantage of their tolerance for poor conditions as they can be prone to HITH (Hole in the Head Disease) which can be quite unattractive and difficult to heal. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallon for seperated single pair+ Water parameters: 77F-82F, PH 7.0-7.9 Maximum size: 24″ male, 14″ female Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Best kept solo. Extra: The Umbie is a beautiful fish that is still relatively new to the hobby. There are a few varieties of this fish such as the Gorillus Black created by Umbee King. This fish is not for the timid as it fits in the category of “glass banger” and can be quite aggressive, even with it’s owner. If you have the pleasure of getting one with this type of aggression, it can make activities such as feeding, cleaning, and anything that may require you to open the lid of the tank fairly difficult. While some may attempt to keep this species with other fish, it’s not recommended since they can be ruthless and eventually take out other tank mates. If keeping a pair, it is highly recommended to have a divider for the female to escape through because the male may easily kill it’s mate if they have a lover’s quarrel. 100 gallon is the absolute mininum when keeping a full grown pair of these fish and it may be recommended to keep them in something closer to 300 gallons, especially if you opt to not get the divider. Lots of hiding places are recommended if keeping more than one fish in your aquarium, but avoid decorations that can be knocked over. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 200 gallon+ Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 30″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive/Predatory Diet: Carnivore based. Will accept live foods such as worms, other insects, fish, and other meaty types. Can be trained onto frozen foods such as shrimp, mussels, worms, brine, bloodworms, etc. With patience, can be trained onto a carnivore based food such as Hikari Massivore. Compatibility: Other large species such as arowana, stingrays, large catfish, and other large cichlids. Avoid any fish that can fit in this fish’s mouth (or even slightly larger) as this fish will consider it food. Extra: The Peacock Bass is a popular choice among hobbyists when keeping a monster tank. Unfortunately, this fish is not suitable in MOST home aquariums since it gets quite large and is an extremely active fish. Decorations should be kept in moderation as this fish gets larger due to this activity level. There are many species of Peacock Bass such as the Ocellaris, Monoculus, Temensis, and the Orinocensis which are popular as a gaming fish among fishermen. This fish can be rewarding and interesting to keep, but is best kept for the advanced keepers.
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 75gallon Water parameters: 74F-80F Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Low protein extremely important, especially as juvenile. Compatibility: Best in solo tank or as a pair, but can be housed with other cichlid of similar size and temperament. Extra: This rare cichlid is a respectable addition to any serious fish keepers collection. It is also quite difficult to care for. The beani has a high mortality rate due to being extremely prone to bloat. They can get bloat fairly easily and can be caused by a number of things such as improper diet, overfeeding, and stress. For this reason, I would not recommend this species for anyone besides the advance keeper.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon, 55 gallon for smaller individuals Water parameters: 72F-81F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Best kept solo. Can be kept with other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament but requires a large tank. Extra: With it’s bad attitude, the grammodes has earned the name “Mini Dovii.” Though this fish is not mini as it can get up to 12″. However, while it can get almost a foot in length, it is a very slow grower and 9″-10″ is a more practical size. Can be kept with other cichilds, but avoid tankmates that are similar in appearance. It is speculated that this species is also prone to bloat, but others will argue that they are no more prone that other American cichlids. Regardless it is especially important for juveniles to avoid improper diet, overfeeding, and stress to reduce this chance.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon for solo fish, 125 for pair Water parameters: 76F-82F, PH 7.0-7.8 Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The Festae, also known as the Red Terror, is suitably named for it’s attitude; though it’s usually the females who live up to this name. Smaller in stature, the females are more brilliant marked with bold black baring and vibrant colors. Often confused with the Mayan, or False Red Terror; the “true” red terror can be distinguished by it’s caudal eye spot. The mayan will have a large eye spot that is large and placed in the middle. While the festae will have a smaller eye spot that takes up the upper 1/3 of the caudal area and the festae’s eye spot will usually also have a white edging around it. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met, though they do need extremely clean water in order to thrive. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular weekly water changes. Use caution when keeping this species with live plants.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 72F-80F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 8″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Larger, robust cichlid Extra: This little spitfire of a cichlid packs a lot of punch for it’s size. It can hold it’s own fairly well against larger and more aggressive species. Female Salvini tend to be more vibrant and sometimes more aggressive. They can be distinguished by the blotch on the gill plate and dorsal fin, though this method isn’t always reliable and may still require venting for confirmation. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met, though they do need extremely clean water in order to thrive. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular weekly water changes. Use caution when keeping live plants, though this species is known to leave them alone.
Photo Credit: Gordon BuckPhoto Credit: Christopher Zavala
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 50 gallon Water parameters: 74F-82F, PH 6.8-7.8 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region:All over Behavior:Aggressive Diet:Pellet or Flake specifically designed for cichlids will suffice though it is recommended to have a diet high in protein for maximum growth. Foods high in krill or other natural color enhancements will bring out the best in your flowerhorn. There is pellets specifically for Flowerhorns, as well as for kok growth. Compatibility:Best kept solo Extra:As you may notice, the flowerhorn does not have a scientific name. That is due to the fact that this fish is actually a man-made hybrid originating from the Trimac. The flowerhorn has a following all on it’s own, however. The kok (or hump) on the head is the most desirable trait when keeping this fish and many strive to have the fish with the largest head. This fish is best kept solo as it can be quite aggressive. 50 gallons is a minimum when keeping a fish up to 8″ and many can live their entire lives in this aquarium. However, if your fish does end up larger they will need a 70 gallon minimum. Regular weekly water changes are a must in keeping your Flowerhorn is prime condition, as well as quality food.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Avoid conspecific Extra: The Pearlscale, or Carpintis, is often mistaken for the Texas and are often mislabeled in fish stores. The Cyano is the “true” texas cichlid and is known as the blue texas. While the Carpintis is known as the green texas or pearlscale. The Carpintis can be distinguished by it’s larger pearls and is usually smaller in comparison to the Texas. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met, though they do need extremely clean water in order to thrive. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular weekly water changes. Use caution when keeping this species with live plants.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 60 gallon for solo adult Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Larger, more aggressive species of cichlid Extra: The Texas Cichlid, also known as the Rio Grande Cichlid, is often confused with it’s relative the Carpintis. The Cyano is the “true” texas cichlid and is known as the blue texas. While the Carpintis is known as the green texas or pearlscale. The Rio Grande/Cyano is usually larger and can be distinguished by it’s smaller, more uniform pearls. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met, though they do need extremely clean water in order to thrive. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular weekly water changes. Use caution when keeping this species with live plants.
Photo Credit: Jason BeaudoinPhoto Credit: Christopher Zavala
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallon for solo adult Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.0-7.5 Maximum size: 14″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Veggies should be offered either fresh, frozen, or a pellet. Compatibility: Best kept solo Extra: The Haitian cichlid also goes by the name “Black Nasty.” This name was no accident as this fish can be quite nasty. They have been known to even attack Dovii and Jaguar cichlid twice their size and can be quite intolerant to tankmates. Every individual can have a different personality, but it’s recommended to keep this fish solo as it’s highly unlikely it will be willing to share a tank with anything other than possibly a mate. It is a fairly hardy species that can acclimate to many water parameters as long as they are not extreme. Use caution when using live plants and consider hardy plants such as Java Fern. Like the beani, this species is prone to bloat which can be caused by a number of things such as improper diet, overfeeding, and stress. For this reason, I would not recommend this species for anyone besides the advance keeper.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: This slow growing cichlid is often mistaken for jaguar cichlid as juveniles since they have similar patterns. They great differ in size and attitude though, however. The Cuban’s personality will vary among individuals as some can be quite docile, while others have been known to be downright nasty. As mentioned, this species is a particularly slow grower so keep in mind that it’s tankmates may outgrow it quite quickly. This may be a great option for those who are attracted to the jaguars beautiful markings and looks, but would like a more manageable size fish. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
“Orion” Photo Credit: Mr. Mann“Orion” Photo Credit: Mr. Mann
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon for juvenile, 240 gallon for solo adult or single pair. Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 24″+ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Best kept solo Extra: The Dovii, also known as the wolf cichlid, is one of the most aggressive cichlids in the trade. They do best kept solo though some have kept them with tankmates until the Dovii kills everything off. Even though each individual has their own personality, it’s highly unlikely they will work in a cichlid community for long. It’s usually not a matter of “if” and more-so of “when.” They are part of the category of cichlid dubbed “glass bangers” for good reason. These fish can be so aggressive that they have been known to slam the glass in an attempt to attack outside intruders. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants. One cannot deny the beauty of this fish, however, due to this nasty attitude and enormous size they are recommended to only advanced keepers.
“Mo” Photo Credit: John Connolly“Mo” Photo Credit: John Connolly
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The yellow jacket, or Freddy, is often mistaken for its relative the Loiselle. While it’s difficult to distinguish the two, the Loiselle will have iridescence around the black markings. Freddy tend to have darker markings, while the Loiselle will have a thicker and taller shape. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The Loiselle is often mistaken for it’s relative, the Freddy. While it’s difficult to distinguish the two, the Loiselle will have iridescence around the black markings. Freddy tend to have darker markings, while the Loiselle will have a thicker and taller shape. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon for 1 pair Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, frogs, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Recommended to keep solo. Extra: The Jaguar is the most commonly available of the Parachromis family, but it’s striking markings are far from common. As juvenile the jag is quite dull, but as it grows larger it’s “jaguar type” pattern will slowly emerge. The females will be rounder and shorter bodied, with a more yellow color to them. While the male will get larger, leaner, and have black finds and a more brilliant pattern. The color does vary between species depending on their catch point, as some may have a bluish hue, yellow hue, or purple one. This fish is not a good choice for beginners as it can be extremely aggressive. Many jags are fairly even tempered until they hit around the 10″ mark and then suddenly become too much for some of their owners. Since many fish stores will not take back such a large, aggressive fish; it is not recommended to take on such a fish unless you have reasonable accommodations for a full grown jag. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon for single pair Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as fish, worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The Red Tiger is a brilliant species in the Parachromis family. The females may stay slightly smaller than the male, but will have bold red markings, particularly around breeding time. The males will have distinct freckles throughout the body, making them attractive in their own right. While they may stay smaller than the Jaguar, some may argue that they have just as much attitude. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon for single adult Water parameters: 75F-80F, PH 7.0-8.0 Maximum size: 14″ Tank region: All Over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Herbivore based diet. Will accept high quality pellet or flake. Include variety of live and frozen foods such as worms, white fish,shrimp, mussles, as well as fresh veggies. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: This large cichlid is a great option for cichlid keepers looking to add color to their collection. While this species isn’t overly aggressive, it can become a bully if housed with fish that can be timid. Similar in appearance to the synspilum, the bifa can be distiguished with more oranges and reds. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 120gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-7.6 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, particularly conspecific Diet: Omnivore based with vegetables included. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: The hartwegi, also known as the red freckle cichlid, is a relatively uncommon fish in the trade. While not as vibrant as some of it’s relatives, it has fairly striking markings such as those trademark red freckles. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 for single pair Water parameters: 76F-82F, PH 6.8-7.8 Maximum size: 13″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Moderately aggressive, conspecific aggressive Diet: Herbivore based. Will accept high quality pellet or flake. Include variety of live and frozen foods such as worms, white fish,shrimp, mussles, as well as fresh veggies, spirulina, and/or algae wafers. Compatibility: Successful in a community of large, robust cichlids. Extra: The Synspilum, or Red Head, is one of the most colorful American Cichlids in the hobby. It is one of the more peaceful of the Vieja/Paratheraps species making it a great choice for intermediate cichlid keepers. Usually only moderately aggressive, it can hold it’s own fairly well alongside more aggressive species; though every individual’s personality will vary. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met, though they do need extremely clean water in order to thrive. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular weekly water changes. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 55 gallon Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will except most foods. High quality pellet or flake, as well as live or frozen foods such as worm, shrimp, mussels, etc. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament.
Photo Credit: Jennifer Goodpaster Harshman
Extra: The Jack Dempsey is a very popular fish in the trade and a great choice for beginners looking to start a cichlid tank. I find this fish extremely under-appreciated due to how common it is as it’s actually a very attractive fish. The jack dempsey is an extremely hardy and forgiving species and will usually acclimate to many water parameters as long as they aren’t too extreme. They are also fairly versatile and can be kept with medium sized cichlids or be able to hold it’s own with larger more aggressive fish. They have a wide range of personalities so some Jack may be fairly mild mannered, while another can be downright nasty. I usually prefer to raise a group of juveniles together until I figure out which personality works best in my tank. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Photo Credit: Conway L. StevensPhoto Credit: Prem Kumar *
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon long for a full grown single fish Water parameters: 75F-85F, PH 7.0-7.8 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially con-specific. Diet: Herbivore based diet. Will accept high quality pellet or flake. Include variety of live and frozen foods such as worms, white fish,shrimp, mussles, as well as fresh veggies. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: Also known as the Silver Cichlid, the Argentea is a stunning addition to any large cichlid community. What this fish lacks in color is made up by it’s striking beauty. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Photo Credit: Conway L. StevensPhoto Credit: Conway L. Stevens
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon for single adult Water parameters: 73F-82F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive, especially conspecific Diet: Herbivore based diet. Will accept high quality pellet or flake. Include variety of live and frozen foods such as worms, white fish,shrimp, mussles, as well as fresh veggies. Compatibility: Other robust cichlids with similar size and temperament. Extra: What this fish lacks in color is made up by it’s striking beauty. Like most cichlids, it is fairly hardy as long as it’s needs are met. They have a large bioload so it’s important to have heavy filtration and regular water changes. While they can be housed with other robust cichlid, they do require plenty of space as they can be quite aggressive. This species is known to be quite destructive with live plants.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons for pair Water parameters: 70F-79F, PH 6.8-7.5 Maximum size: 5.5″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other larger cichlids with similar requirements, or with a large, fast moving dither school. Best kept as a solo pair Extra: While the Jewel is an African cichlid, it is from the rivers instead of the lakes. Therefore, it’s requirements are much different than those of the rift lakes. Their needs are closer to the American cichlids than the African. Due to their aggressive nature, tankmates can be tricky. They can take on much larger fish than themselves and can get themselves into some trouble with their attitude. While it can be done, I recommend keeping these as a species specific tank.
Difficulty: 2/5 Tank minimum: 80 gallon for solo adult Water parameters: 73F-79F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 18″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Extremely Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Best kept solo! Extra: The Buttikoferi has the reputation for being one of the most aggressive fish in the freshwater hobby. “Satan in Scales” “Demon Fish” “Glass Banger” are just a few of the many nicknames this fish has gotten from other hobbyists. This fish is very intelligent and could make for an interesting choice anyone looking to keep an interactive pet…though the interaction may not be the friendliest. With it’s large size and big personality, it makes for an impressive fish. 80 gallons is the absolute minimum keeping a full grown Butti, though realistically they need at least 120 gallons or more to themselves.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 75 gallon Water parameters: 79F-82F, PH 7.0-8.5, GH Soft Maximum size: 10″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Mildly Aggressive Diet: Omnivore based. Will accept most foods and should include a high quality pellet, as well as a variety of live or frozen foods such as worms, bloodworms, spirulina, brine, mysis, prawn, mussle. Compatibility: Other larger cichlids with similar needs and temperament Extra: The Polleni is an unusual cichlid from Madagascar that still has a lot unknown about it. More common than it’s relative, the Bleekeri, it can be distinguished by it’s smaller spots. Though there is much to be learned still about this fish, some people have had success keeping this fish with larger American cichlids that are more mild tempered. Some have kept them with community fish with bottom dwellers and larger schooling as well. Though they are technically African, they may not thrive well in many African communities. Stay tuned on further information on this mysterious fish.
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 100 gallon Water parameters: 71F-81F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 16″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Predatory, Conspecific Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Can be picky but will accept meaty foods such as live fish, blackworms, bloodworms, shrimp, crustaceans, etc. Can possibly be pellet trained. Compatibility: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Indo Datnoid is the most commonly available Datnoid available in the fish hobby. This oddball is inquisitive and is considered part of the “Wet Pet” category of fish. The “Wet Pet” type fish are those fish that have been known to be very observant and interactive with their owners. The Indo can reach upwards of 17″ but is typically closer to 9″-12″ in captivity and is a very slow grower. 100 gallons is the absolute minimum for an adult datnoid, though larger is always better. They are relatively peaceful among larger tankmates, but will usually stick up for themselves if need be. Anything that the dat thinks can be food is in danger when kept with this fish. Despite it’s mouth looking fairly small, it can extend quite large. While some people keep more than one datnoid together, they have been known to be bullies with one another. Words like “stable” is used when referring to datnoids which describes the state the datnoid is in. A datnoid with bold bars, is eating, and is active is a stable fish. A datnoid that is mottled, dark with it’s bars faded is a sign of a stressed out, unstable fish. Many people have had their datnoids mysteriously die, making them a choice best kept to more experienced keepers. While they can be pellet trained, expect to be feeding frozen or live food as they can be quite stubborn to train onto pellets.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 180 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 40″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory, conspecific aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Can be picky but will accept meaty foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, nightcrawlers, shrimp, mussels, crustaceans, etc. Can be pellet trained. Compatibility: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Fire Eel is a large spiny eel, though not a true eel, that is moderate to intermediate with it’s care. While it is relatively peaceful, especially as a juvenile they can be aggressive with other fire eels, as well as other spiny eel species. As juveniles they can be housed in a 55 gallon, but will require at least 180 gallons when full grown. While they can reach up to 40″ in the wild, they usually reach closer to 20″-24″ in captivity, which they can reach fairly quickly with optimal care. This fish can be sensitive to poor water conditions so regular weekly water changes are a necessity and a secure lid is an absolute must as these fish can be escape artists. And a soft substrate such as sand is an excellent choice when keeping spiny eels as a sharp gravel can injure their delicate bellies. Use caution when keeping this species with plants as they can become unrooted. Like other scaleless fish, this species can be quite sensitive to medications.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.8-7.8 Maximum size: 28″ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory, conspecific aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Can be picky but will accept meaty foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, nightcrawlers, shrimp, mussels, crustaceans, etc. Can sometimes be pellet trained. Compatibility: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Tire Track eel is spiny eel, though not a true eel, that is often mistaken with the Zig Zag. The Tire Track will be smaller than the Zig Zag, which will get larger at around 36″. The Zig Zag will have markings that are the most bold on the upper two thirds of its body and it’s belly will have no markings. The Tire Track, on the other hand, will have markings throughout it’s body, as well as on it’s belly. This fish can be sensitive to poor water conditions so regular weekly water changes are a necessity and a secure lid is an absolute must as these fish can be escape artists. And a soft substrate such as sand is an excellent choice when keeping spiny eels as a sharp gravel can injure their delicate bellies. Use caution when keeping this species with plants as they can become unrooted. Like other scaleless fish, this species can be quite sensitive to medications.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 125 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.8-7.8 Maximum size: 36“ Tank region: Bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory, conspecific aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Can be picky but will accept meaty foods such as blackworms, bloodworms, nightcrawlers, shrimp, mussels, crustaceans, etc. Can sometimes be pellet trained. Compatibility: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Zig Zag Eel, though not a true eel, is often mistaken for the Tire Track. The Tire Track will be smaller than the Zig Zag, which will get larger at around 36″. The Zig Zag will have markings that are the most bold on the upper two thirds of its body and it’s belly will have no markings. The Tire Track, on the other hand, will have markings throughout it’s body, as well as on it’s belly. This fish can be sensitive to poor water conditions so regular weekly water changes are a necessity and a secure lid is an absolute must as these fish can be escape artists. And a soft substrate such as sand is an excellent choice when keeping spiny eels as a sharp gravel can injure their delicate bellies. Use caution when keeping this species with plants as they can become uprooted. Like other scaleless fish, this species can be quite sensitive to medications.
Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 200 gallon long “breeder” Water parameters: 70F-84F, PH 6.5-7.8 Maximum size: 60″ Tank region: All over, Mostly middle Behavior: Predatory, though generally mild mannered Diet: Carnivore/Piscivore based. Most will only eat live fish at first. Will accept meaty foods such as shrimp, prawn, crickets, silversides, krill, etc. Compatibility:: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates that can out compete with food and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Florida Spotted Gar is very similar in appearance to the Spotted Gar, though it is the more readily available species of the two. This large fish is actually quite peaceful as long as it’s tankmates are not too small for the gar to think they are food. It is important that this fish is kept in a large enough tank to accommodate it’s size and it wide enough to allow the gar to turn around because they are at risk of breaking their backs. The size of the Florida Spotted varies greatly, but they are usually around 34″. This means they will require closer to 300-450 gallons when full grown and it’s important that the tank is a breeder type tank (long and shallow vs. tall and deep.) Avoid housing with fast swimming fish that can out compete the gar with food.
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 1,500 gallons+Not appropriate for aquariums Water parameters: 70F-80F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 120″ that’s 10 feet! Tank region: All over, mostly middle Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore/Piscivore based. Most will only eat live fish at first. Will accept meaty foods such as shrimp, prawn, crickets, silversides, krill, etc. Compatibility: Other large bodied fish. Avoid overly aggressive tankmates that can out compete with food and smaller fish that can eaten. Extra: The Alligator Gar is a largest of the gar species and is best suited for public aquariums who can house this 300 lb fish or someone with a very large pond. As juveniles it is important that they are fed meaty foods daily to keep up with their fast metabolisms, but as they get larger they need to eat less often. They are fairly easy to keep as long as they are housed properly and their requirements are met and do best in neutral waters with nothing too extreme.
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 500 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 36″ Tank region: Middle-bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore/Piscivore based. Meaty foods with majority of diet consisting of fish such as silversides, smelt, mackerel. Possibly river shrimp or worms Compatibility: Best kept solo, can be kept with stingrays, mbu puffer, large fish that won’t fit in it’s mouth. Extra: The Armatus is the largest of the payara species and can grow fairly large. Recommended for experts only. Due to the difficulty of keeping this fish, many have only had success in keeping this fish alive for a year or two never allowing this fish to reach full size. The Armatus is less common, more expensive, and a tad hardier than the Scomb, however. The Armatus needs to be kept as a single species, and the scomb can be kept in groups. 200 gallon or larger seems to be the tank minimum for keeping these fish as juvenile, 500 is more realistic for adults, but closer to 1000 gallons is much more ideal in order to truly reach it’s potential and live longer. These fish require a heavy current and pristine water conditions are an absolute must. Avoid nocturnal tankmates that can spook this fish. This species is very sensitive to medications.
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Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 200 gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.0-8.0 Maximum size: 12″ Tank region: Middle Behavior: Predatory, skittish Diet: Carnivore/Piscivore based. Meaty foods with majority of diet consisting of fish such as silversides, smelt, mackerel. Possibly river shrimp or worms Compatibility: Similar size tank mates. Can be kept in groups, avoid overactive species. Extra: The Scomb, or Vampire Tetra, is one of the more commonly available payara. They are less expensive, a little less aggressive, and can be kept in a group. However, they tend to be more delicate and are notorious for dying within a year or two. They are slow growers so care should be given when choosing tank mates as many will outgrow this fish quickly. Avoid fluctuations in temperature and PH, and these fish require a heavy current and pristine water conditions and are an absolute must. Avoid nocturnal tankmates that can spook this fish. This species is extremely sensitive to medications.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 30 gallons Water parameters: 78F-82F, PH 7.5-8.2, Salinity 1.005-1.20 Maximum size: 6″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Frozen/freeze dried/live meaty foods such as krill, ghost shrimp, worms, crickets, prawns, brine, etc. Adults can also have clams, mussels, squid, scallops, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, lobsters, crayfish. Snails are a must, especially juveniles. Compatibility: Use caution with tankmates. Other brackish or saltwater fish such as monos, scat, archerfish may work. Extra: Often sold in the freshwater section, the Green Spotted Puffer is not a true freshwater fish. While they may start as juvenile in freshwater, they require brackish-saltwater in order to survive. By keeping this freshwater long term, you will drastically shorten their lifespans and some may only live up to 3 years, though sometimes much, much shorter. In reality this fish is meant to live closer to 10 years, sometimes even 15 years. Many uninformed hobbyists with argue that they can be kept freshwater, but the reality is that this is an inappropriate choice for freshwater keepers.
The GSP, like all puffers, is full of personality and can entertain for hours, but with all that adorable comes a dark side. Puffers are known for being quite nasty and biting or killing it’s tank mates. Having a larger aquarium will reduce the chances of aggression. Meaty foods with a hard shell, such as snails are a requirement when keeping most puffers. Like rodents, their teeth will continue to grow so it is important that they are kept under control with foods like snails to keep them filed down.
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Difficulty: 3/5 Tank minimum: 15 gallon for single fish Water parameters: 78F-82F, PH 7.5-8.2, Salinity 1.005-1.008 Maximum size: 4″ Tank region: All over Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Frozen/freeze dried/live meaty foods such as krill, ghost shrimp, worms, crickets, prawns, brine, etc. Compatibility: Use caution with tankmates. Other brackish fish such as monos, scat, archerfish, mollies, bumblebee goby, knight gobies may work. Extra: The Figure Eight Puffer is another brackish fish often sold in the freshwater section. While they may start as juvenile in freshwater, they require brackish-saltwater in order to survive. By keeping this freshwater long term, you will drastically shorten their lifespans. Many uninformed hobbyists with argue that they can be kept freshwater, but the reality is that this is an inappropriate choice for freshwater keepers. They can get up to 4″ in size, but are realistically closer to 2.5″-3″. A single fish can be kept in 15 gallons (though 30 gallons is a little more ideal) and 10 gallons per additional Figure Eight after.
Like all puffers, the Figure Eight is full of personality and can entertain for hours, but with all that adorable comes a dark side. Puffers are known for being quite nasty and biting or killing it’s tank mates. Having a larger aquarium will reduce the chances of aggression. Meaty foods with a hard shell, such as snails are a requirement when keeping most puffers. Like rodents, their teeth will continue to grow so it is important that they are kept under control with foods like snails to keep them filed down.
Difficulty: 4/5 Tank minimum:125gallon Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 6.5-7.5 Maximum size: 18″ Tank region: All over, mostly middle-bottom dwelling Behavior: Aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Frozen/freeze dried/live meaty foods such as krill, ghost shrimp, worms, crickets, prawns, brine, etc. Adults can also have clams, mussels, squid, scallops, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, lobsters, crayfish. Snails are a must, especially juveniles. Compatibility: Best kept solo Extra: The Fahaka Puffer is a large freshwater puffer that is kept to more experienced keepers. While they may tolerate a small amount of salinity, they do best in freshwater. Like all puffers, the Fahaka is full of personality and can be trained to eat out of your hand, but with all that adorable comes a dark side. Puffers are known for being quite nasty and biting or killing it’s tank mates, therefore it is highly recommended to keep this fish solo. Meaty foods with a hard shell, such as snails are a requirement when keeping most puffers. Like rodents, their teeth will continue to grow so it is important that they are kept under control with foods like snails to keep them filed down. Heavy filtration is a must as these fish are messy, have a high bioload, and are very sensitive to nitrates and ammonia.
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Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 300 gallons+ Water parameters: 75F-82F, PH 7.0-8.0, GH hard Maximum size: 30″ Tank region: All over, mostly middle-bottom dwelling Behavior: Very aggressive Diet: Carnivore based. Frozen/freeze dried/live meaty foods such as krill, ghost shrimp, worms, crickets, prawns, brine, etc. Adults can also have clams, mussels, squid, scallops, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, lobsters, crayfish. Snails are a must, especially juveniles. Compatibility: Best kept solo Extra: The Mbu Puffer is the largest of all the freshwater puffer species and is recommended to only experienced keepers. While this fish can tolerate smaller tanks as a juvenile, they will eventually need 1000 gallons when full grown. Like all puffers, the Mbu is full of personality and can be trained to eat out of your hand (though use extreme caution), but with all that adorable comes a dark side. Puffers are known for being quite nasty and biting or killing it’s tank mates, therefore it is highly recommended to keep this fish solo. Meaty foods with a hard shell, such as snails are a requirement when keeping most puffers. Like rodents, their teeth will continue to grow so it is important that they are kept under control with foods like snails to keep them filed down. Heavy filtration is a must as these fish are messy, have a high bioload, and are very sensitive to nitrates and ammonia.
Difficulty: 5/5 Tank minimum: 650 gallon Water parameters: 72F-82F, PH 6.5-8.0 Maximum size: 41″ Tank region: All over, mostly middle-bottom dwelling Behavior: Predatory Diet: Carnivore/Piscivore based. Will eat mostly live fish but can be trained onto frozen meaty foods such as shrimp, whole fish, smelt, silversides. Possibly can be pellet trained, though difficult. Compatibility: tankmates must be much larger. Juveniles have been known to school together, adults solo. Extra: There are a few different species of Tiger Fish, though for now I am only starting with the African Tiger. Though not as large as the Goliath Tiger Fish, this species still gets fairly large. They can get upwards of 42″ but are usually seen closer to 30″ in captivity. They are fairly hardy, though housing them can be quite difficult. They can be housed in a minimum of 650 gallons, but 1000 gallons is more ideal. They need heavy filtration, a strong current, and heavily oxygenated water.
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